Preserving Traditional Art: The Vibrant World of Khon at Bangkok's Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre

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When it comes to traditional performing arts in Thailand, Khon stands out as one of the most well-known.

Chances are, you may have come across the characters from the country's famous "masked drama" during your travels without even knowing it.

For example, at Suvarnabhumi International Airport in Bangkok, you'll find towering statues of yak, which are giant ogres, watching over passengers as they depart.

These giants are part of the Ramakien, a Thai epic inspired by the Hindu story of Ramayana. Dating back to the Ayutthaya era, Khon brings this classic tale to life through dance, martial arts, and traditional Thai music. The elaborate costumes and jewelry have earned Khon a spot on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list in 2018.

Behind the scenes at Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre

In Khon, there are a few groups of characters such as the “Phra” (lords), the “Nang” (ladies), the “Yak” (ogres), and the “Ling” (monkeys). The monkey and ogre performers wear masks, while the other characters use dramatic makeup to accentuate their facial features. (Dialogue is narrated by a unseen narrator during the performance.)

Nowadays, Khon is performed in various places like schools, special events, and even in Thai restaurants popular among tourists. However, one of the top spots to witness an authentic Khon performance is at Bangkok’s Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre.

During a recent visit to the historic space, CNN went backstage to chat with the Khon performers. They host three shows per day, five days a week. The performers shared about the challenges of preserving this traditional art form in today's modern world.

Apassara Nok-ork, pictured in the role of Suvannamaccha, has been performing khon for two decades.

Apassara Nok-ork, pictured in the role of Suvannamaccha, has been performing khon for two decades.

Karla Cripps/CNN

The two main leads of this Khon show, Hanuman (the Monkey King) and Princess Mermaid (Suvannamaccha), need to come early to get ready for the three performances of the day. You can watch them perform together in the video above.

Apassara Nok-ork, 35, portrays the mermaid, or golden fish, in the show. She plays a role where she tries to disrupt Hanuman's plans of building a bridge over the sea. But here's the twist: she ends up falling in love with him instead.

Apassara, while applying heavy, intricate makeup to her face, shares with CNN that she has been learning traditional Thai dance since she was about four years old. At the age of 15, she decided to specialize in Khon.

According to Apassara, starting at a young age is crucial in traditional Thai dance. She explains, "We have to begin at a very young age and continue practicing the routine. We also need to train our bodies to maintain strength because the costumes are quite heavy. Without sufficient training, our exhaustion would be visible during the performance, affecting the audience's experience."

Festival goers in Bangkok, Thailand, participated in a large water gun fight during Songkran on Khaosan Road. Songkran is the traditional Thai New Year's Festival celebrated in April, the hottest month in Thailand. Locals and tourists come together to join water fights as part of the festivities.

BANGKOK, THAILAND - APRIL 13: Festival goers take part in a massive water gun fight during Songkran on Khaosan Road on April 13, 2023 in Bangkok, Thailand. Songkran, the traditional Thai New Year's Festival, is celebrated each April, Thailand's hottest month of the year. During Songkran, locals and tourists celebrate by partaking in water fights throughout the country. (Photo by Lauren DeCicca/Getty Images)

Lauren DeCicca/Getty Images

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Flexibility is a crucial skill for Khon performers. The hand movements of the female dancers may seem unnatural on stage, but they are the result of years of intense training.

Apassara impresses others with her flexibility by bending her wrist joint back while grasping the tips of her left hand with her right hand. She showcases a level of flexibility that would be challenging for most individuals.

Every time I step onto the stage to perform, I still feel a rush of excitement, regardless of how many times I have done it before.

Apassara Nok-ork, Khon performer

She says the training required to get to this skill level tends to weed out those who aren’t truly passionate about the art.

She mentions that individuals lacking physical and mental strength might give up during their studies.

Apassara appears on stage at Sala Chalermkrung for the first show of the day, displaying no signs of exhaustion. Despite the heavy metallic headpiece secured tightly under her chin and the layers of golden fabric draping her figure, she gracefully glides across the stage, skillfully dodging Hanuman's pursuit until they unite for a captivating duet.

Apassara believes that all the pain and hard work she has endured over the years has been worth it.

She mentions, "Khon has given me the opportunity to perform at prestigious ceremonies such as royal events, as well as travel to distant locations all around the globe."

I always feel proud when I share this valuable art with audiences. Every time I perform, I still get excited, no matter how many times I've done it before.

Thanet Pakwisath puts on his Hanuman mask prior to an afternoon show at Sala Charlermkrung,

Thanet Pakwisath puts on his Hanuman mask prior to an afternoon show at Sala Charlermkrung,

Different masks are worn by actors portraying giants and monkeys in the show, with variations based on the character's status and rank. Skilled artisans may spend weeks or even months creating these intricate masks.

Many of the masked characters require their costumes to be sewn for a better fit – zippers and buttons are not enough.

One of these characters is Hanuman, the Monkey King. Thanet Pakwisath, a 34-year-old performer at Sala Chalermkrung, has been practicing Khon for over 20 years.

The monkey's trainer tells CNN that the acrobatics, such as leaps and summersaults, require immense strength and ongoing practice. He is dedicated to providing this training happily.

Mango sticky rice is one of Thailand's most famous desserts. K. Panich has been serving the dish at its Bangkok shophouse since 1932.

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“Khon is more than my life now,” he says. “And I believe that other performers here at Sala Chalermkrung would have the same belief.”

But like many of his colleagues, he fears for its fate.

Thanet is concerned about the future of Khon and hopes to raise awareness about it. He worries that this traditional art form may fade away if more people do not show interest in it.

At present, only a small number of individuals are working to preserve Khon. Thanet believes that it is important for both Thais and foreigners to come together and support the preservation efforts.

Sala Chalermkrung: A living museum

Situated on Charoenkrung Road, Bangkok’s first paved street, Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theater boasts a captivating history. In 2023, it will mark its 90th anniversary, making it a living museum in the heart of the city.

Sponsored by King Prajadhipok to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the founding of Bangkok, the Salachalermkrung cinema opened its doors in 1933. It offered locals the opportunity to watch movies with sound, many of which were foreign films dubbed in Thai. The cinema was housed in a modernist, high-tech building equipped with air conditioning.

View this post on InstagramA post shared by Khon Salachalermkrung (@salachalermkrung)

After World War II, Thai film saw a significant growth, along with the cinema industry. Sala Chalermkrung became known for hosting film premieres attended by movie stars and other Thai celebrities.

However, starting from the late 1970s, the number of visitors to Sala Chalermkrung started to decrease. By the 1990s, it was clear that a change was needed.

After undergoing a series of renovations, Sala Chalermkrung has reopened with a new focus: to exhibit and safeguard Khon, as well as other traditional Thai performing arts. The original charm of the building has been preserved, from the lobby to the theater itself.

Currently, shows at Sala Chalermkrung are changed regularly, with staff mentioning to CNN that a new Khon performance will debut in July. Visitors have the option to purchase a ticket at the entrance for 400 baht ($11). Alternatively, entry to the nearby Grand Palace (500 baht) includes a complimentary pass to one of the theater's weekday Khon performances, scheduled at 1 p.m., 2:30 p.m., and 4 p.m.

Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theater, 66 Sala Chalermkrung, Charoenkrung Road, Phra Nakhon District, Bangkok; +66 (0)2 224 4499

Editor's P/S:

The article offers a fascinating glimpse into the captivating world of Khon, Thailand's renowned masked drama. The intricate costumes, skillful choreography, and poignant narratives have earned this traditional art form a place on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list. Behind the scenes, performers like Apassara Nok-ork and Thanet Pakwisath dedicate their lives to preserving and sharing this cultural treasure.

However, the future of Khon faces challenges. Thanet expresses concerns about waning interest and a lack of support. This highlights the importance of fostering awareness and engaging audiences to ensure that this valuable art form continues to thrive for generations to come.