Preserving a Vanishing Craft: South Korea's Last Makgeolli Artisan near the Historic Mountain Fortress
Discover the essence of South Korea's rich heritage at Geumjeongsanseong, where a legendary brewery crafts the extraordinary makgeolli Experience the unique flavors and tradition that have been cherished for centuries Uncover the authentic taste that preserves the essence of Korean culture
Situated on the picturesque Geumjeong Mountain, on the outskirts of Busan, South Korea's second largest city, lies the remnants of what used to be the largest mountain fortress in the country.
The connection of this former bastion to the local community continues through a nearby village brewery that has been producing the unique alcoholic beverage, makgeolli, for centuries. Makgeolli, often referred to as fermented rice wine, has seen a revival in popularity in recent years. The newer and higher quality makgeolli brands tend to be sweeter and lighter, catering to the preferences of younger drinkers who have grown accustomed to their flavor.
Yoo Cheong-gil, the sixth-generation owner of the brewery and the sole officially recognized makgeolli master in South Korea, describes our Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli as a beverage that embodies the struggles of the local community. This traditional brew, named after the picturesque Geumjeongsanseong mountain fortress, is characterized by its heightened sourness, tanginess, and thickness in comparison to its modern counterparts.
"Many young people taste ours and are surprised by the flavor because they have never tasted the traditional makgeolli made by old wives."
What makes Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli unique
Bottles of Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli are sourer than modern brands of makgeolli.
David Hawley/CNN
The Geumjeongsan Fortress that visitors experience today was built in the 1700s, but other structures were constructed and fortified in its place for centuries before that.
Throughout history, workers on the construction site would indulge in the local makgeolli during their breaks. Enamored by its unique flavors, they enthusiastically shared the discovery of this exceptional variation of the creamy alcoholic beverage upon returning to their hometowns once their work was finished. As a result of their efforts, Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli gradually gained recognition as a cherished delicacy across the nation, ultimately earning the prestigious title of South Korea's sole "Traditional Folk Wine."
Yoos family has been producing this exceptional makgeolli for over five centuries. Yoo asserts that the secret of its distinctiveness resides in its nuruk (a type of Korean yeast cake).
"This is genuinely a valuable gem," affirms Yoo, grasping a flawlessly circular and flattened segment of nuruk, reminiscent of a baked pizza dough.
"This is an example of a high-quality nuruk. Observe the yellow yeast present, and upon closer inspection, you will notice the presence of white and black yeast as well. The combination of these different yeasts characterizes a well-made nuruk."
Yoo mentions that the edges are made thick in order to retain moisture for a longer duration.
Yeast thrives in moisture. The thick edge of the
facilitates a uniform distribution of yeast, extending from the thicker outer part to the narrower center. This practice has been passed down through generations, embodying centuries' worth of experimentation and refinement.
An experienced nuruk maker stomps on unfermented dough until it is round and flat.
David Hawley/CNN
The flattened nuruk is placed in the fermentation room to allow natural yeast to settle on it and undergo the flowering process. After fermentation, the nuruk is dried outdoors under the sunlight for two to three days, effectively eliminating any undesirable fungi with UV light.
Lastly, the flowered and sun-dried nuruk is stored in a designated space for a fermentation period of 30-45 days.
Once prepared, the nuruk, with its brownish and crumbly texture, is fragmented and combined with steamed sticky rice and water to commence the brewing process of the authentic makgeolli.
The outcome? An enchanting beverage that encapsulates the essence of the terroir: the unique yeasts present in the air of the protected Sanseong Valley, characterized by pristine water and elevated altitude.
Preserving traditional flavors for everyone
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South Korea's scenic Geumjeong Mountain
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Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli is the only brewery in the country that makes its nuruk using these traditional methods.
"Thats why if I stop, a part of our culture will completely fade," says Yoo.
Most modern makgeolli brewers use machine-pressed nuruk, and the yeast is added manually.
"The machine-made nuruk we have is starkly distinct from our traditional version. It lacks any pigmentation, appearing purely white. Its inability to blossom arises from the absence of yeast within the dough. Moreover, its flavor and aroma are entirely divergent," Yoo remarks.
The artisanal team responsible for crafting nuruk at Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli entails five skilled women, each boasting half a century of expertise in stomping on naruk dough.
"From my early childhood days, every family in this town took pride in crafting their own beverages. The art of preparing sticky rice, blending it seamlessly with nuruk, and carefully pouring it into traditional clay pots: These were the mesmerizing sights that greeted me since the very beginning of my life," shares Yoo.
Immersed in fond memories, he recalls assisting his grandmother in kneading the dough infused with nuruk while simultaneously absorbing the intricacies of the brewing process through his mother's creation of makgeolli.
"This drink is my family. Their life itself," says Yoo, who took over the family craft about three decades ago.
Today, his son and nephew work alongside him.
Yoo prioritizes the preservation of traditional makgeolli flavors for his family, ensuring customers can relish it in its authentic state. Additionally, he remains steadfast in keeping the price affordable, disregarding the laborious brewing method, making it accessible to all.
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"I believe that the makers of premium makgeolli are overly focused on consumerism. While the regular makgeolli is the drink of the people, I believe that the drink I create here should cater to the tastes of regular individuals. This is how we ensure the preservation of its traditional flavor," explains Yoo.
"However, there are those who argue that we are not keeping up with the times. They urge us to adapt to contemporary tastes, but doing so would cause our traditional practices to fade away. There are individuals who experiment and create innovative makgeolli for the younger generation. In my opinion, both approaches are necessary."
Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli produces around 5,000 to 6,000 bottles per day. Each of the 750ml bottles is priced at KRW3,000 ($2.2).
Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli is unpasteurized, so it continues to evolve even after it's bottled.
David Hawley/CNN
As for how the traditional beverage should be enjoyed, Yoo says this is not the time to sip.
"You need to gulp it down from a bowl," he says.
Many locals prefer to enjoy pairing makgeolli with crispy scallion jeon (pancakes), according to him.
The brewery features a nuruk fermentation room, a brewing room, and an exhibition room displaying the family's collection of makgeolli-making equipment. Additionally, they offer brewing classes for visitors. While Geumjeongsanseong's yellow-labeled makgeolli can be found elsewhere in Busan, Yoo believes that a visit to Geumjeong Mountain is essential for experiencing the drink's truly authentic flavor.
"The taste of this drink may vary depending on where you consume it. Unlike pasteurized makgeolli, which ceases fermentation upon shipment, our product continues to ferment," he explains.
"These beverages are highly temperature-sensitive and have a breathing process. Patience is key to creating something truly exceptional."
