Olympic Champion Carissa Moore's Epic Encounter with the Powerful Teahupo'o Wave

Carissa Moore recalls her first time surfing at Teahupo'o, the famous wave off the coast of Tahiti. As a recent high school graduate, Moore lacked the accolades she holds today, but her curiosity and excitement were at their peak. Despite her limited experience, Teahupo'o quickly proved to be as challenging as its reputation suggests - one of the most intimidating waves in the world.

"I felt completely out of my element," Moore recalls, reflecting on her experiences surfing the renowned break over the years. "I had never encountered a wave like that before and it really scared me."

Teahupo'o appears like a picturesque scene from French Polynesia, with its flawless barrel enveloping surfers as they gracefully glide across its surface, leaving a trail of white foam in their wake. However, hidden within the wave's beauty is a lurking danger: anyone brave enough to surf Teahupo'o runs the risk of being engulfed by its towering, thunderous wall of water and pulled towards the shallow reef below.

"It's often the waves that seem the most intimidating that turn out to be the most rewarding," Moore shares with CNN Sport. "It's a strange phenomenon - your body and mind may be hesitant, but you have to push yourself to believe that these waves are worth it, and take the plunge."

NAZARE, PORTUGAL - DECEMBER 14 : Sebastian Steudtner of germany Big Wave surfer on December 14 , 2018 in Nazare, Portugal. (Photo by Stefan Matzke - sampics/Corbis via Getty Images)

Sebastian Steudtner, a big wave surfer from Germany, was spotted riding the waves in Nazare, Portugal on December 14, 2018. The impressive sight was captured by photographer Stefan Matzke.

Related article

Why big wave surfer Sebastian Steudtner feels most at ‘peace’ at the mercy of Mother Nature

"It's not something that comes naturally. The consequences can be really serious. I mean, if you fall, you could end up getting seriously injured. Some people have experienced really bad wipeouts and injuries from that wave. But you have to remind yourself, 'Hey, I could also have the ride of my life and the thrill of my life at the same time.'"

Teahupo'o, also known as "The End of the Road," will be the location for this year's Olympic surfing event. It will also be hosting this week's Tahiti Pro, where Moore has been given a wild card entry as she gears up for Paris 2024.

The Hawaii native is currently at a crucial point in her career. She made it known earlier this year that she would be taking a break from competitions, choosing to participate only in the Tahiti Pro and the Olympics.

Rather than retiring, Moore prefers to see this phase as "a transition and growth." This involves exploring interests beyond surfing - focusing on her foundation, publishing a book, and completing a documentary with Red Bull detailing her journey in surfing.

This week, the attention is back on surfing. While Moore's competitors may have more experience from participating in several events this season, it's unlikely that the five-time world champion will lose her competitive edge during her short break from the tour.

Additionally, she recently went on a training trip to Tahiti, where she was reminded of the strength and force of Teahupo'o's waves.

Moore waits for a wave at Teahupo'o during the Tahiti Pro event on August 11 last year.

Moore waits for a wave at Teahupo'o during the Tahiti Pro event on August 11 last year.

"The waves at Teahupo’o are big, intense, and scary," says Moore. "I don’t think you can ever feel completely comfortable there. But I believe that the more you challenge yourself in uncomfortable situations, the more comfortable you will become."

I have always been a calculated risk-taker when it comes to my work. The more experience I gain, the more confident I become. So, when the opportunity arises during a competition, I know I can perform at my best.

Surfing was introduced as an Olympic sport in Japan three years ago. As the only female gold medalist in the sport, Moore aims to defend her title and start her break from competitions on a positive note.

"I feel incredibly thankful for winning a gold medal," the 31-year-old expresses. "In surfing, it's truly remarkable when everything aligns perfectly during a competition with all the different factors involved. It's a special moment for sure.

While I understand it's a lot to ask for a repeat victory, I am determined to give it my all. I don't want to put too much pressure on myself to win gold again. Sometimes, excessive pressure can actually affect performance negatively."

The staging of the Olympics in Tahiti, almost 10,000 miles from Paris, has raised environmental concerns that may overshadow the event.

Last year, a barge damaged the shallow coral reef in Tahiti while constructing a nine-ton aluminum tower. This tower was deemed necessary to accommodate the 40 people involved in judging and televising the competition. The reef is crucial in generating the heaviest, thickest wave in the world.

The International Surf Association and other members of the surf community expressed their concern over the wooden structure used for World Surf League (WSL) events in Tahiti, which is typically set up and taken down.

Professional surfer Moore believes that the handling of the situation could have been more thoughtful. She emphasizes the importance of protecting the environment, especially the reefs and oceans, which are crucial for surfers to enjoy. Moore advocates for taking better care of our playground for future generations.

“There’s not much we can do now, but I definitely want to find a way to impact the community in a positive way and leave something for the next generation.”

Moore, a five-time world champion, has stepped away from surfing's Championship Tour this year.

Moore, a five-time world champion, has stepped away from surfing's Championship Tour this year.

Brent Bielmann/World Surf League/Getty Images

One idea she is considering involves securing land to create a soccer field for kids in the village of around 1,500 people. This project is currently in the brainstorming stages.

Inspiring the next generation is a topic that Moore is passionate about. Her foundation, Moore Aloha, was established when she was going through a difficult time on tour and feeling lost. The foundation uses surfing to empower young girls as they navigate mental health, wellness, and womanhood.

"I grew up as a young woman and noticed that there weren't many opportunities for girls, especially in the ocean," Moore shares. "It all began with surf mentorship and spreading the aloha spirit, which is still the foundation. Engaging in creative activities is incredibly beneficial for the mind.

"With the rise in depression, anxiety, and various stresses we face, disconnecting from technology in the ocean is a refreshing break. It's a special time of day just for myself, where the outside world fades away, and I am fully present. Through this presence, we can truly understand ourselves."

Moore's decision to step away from surfing has been driven by her self-awareness and clarity on her life goals. This announcement had been contemplated for a year.

While Moore has considered starting a family, her future, whether in the ocean or elsewhere, is still uncertain. As one of the greatest surfers ever, she values the freedom to create her own journey.

"I'm not completely ruling out the possibility of going on tour and competing," Moore explains. "But I want to take some time to explore my options and see what the future holds. It's possible that I may come back to competing, or I might just concentrate on Moore Aloha, free surfing, and working on film projects. Only time will tell."

Editor's P/S:

Carissa Moore's journey as a surfer is both inspiring and relatable. Her description of Teahupo'o as both alluring and intimidating resonates with the challenges we all face in pursuing our dreams. Moore's courage and determination to overcome her fears serve as a reminder that even the most daunting obstacles can be conquered with perseverance and a belief in oneself.

Moreover, Moore's emphasis on environmental consciousness and her commitment to giving back to the community highlight the importance of using our platforms for positive change. Her plans to create a soccer field for children in Tahiti exemplify her passion for inspiring the next generation and making a lasting impact beyond her surfing career. Carissa Moore's story is a testament to the transformative power of sport, both on and off the water.