Living the Macao Lifestyle: A Second-Generation Resident's Perspective

Vivian Lai, a second-generation Macao resident training as a nurse, only visits casinos once a year - on Chinese New Year. It is believed that gambling during this time brings good luck for the upcoming year, regardless of whether you win or lose.

Macao, the Chinese special administrative region commonly compared to Hong Kong, is often referred to as the Las Vegas of Asia. It is the only place in greater China where gambling is legal, and the city's skyline is dominated by major players in the gaming industry.

Home to only 600,000 residents, Macao may seem overshadowed by its towering hotels and casinos when compared to the bustling city of Hong Kong with seven million inhabitants. However, travelers who are willing to delve deeper can discover the rich blend of Macanese culture, influenced by Portuguese, Chinese, and Southeast Asian heritages.

Macao consists of two islands, with Macao itself located in the north and Taipa in the south. Taipa was once a rural area, and transportation between the islands was by boat. In 1972, the first bridge connecting the two islands was completed. Today, there are four bridges, with a fifth currently under construction.

People visit the Ruins of St. Paul's in Macao, China, on February 22, 2023.

People visit the Ruins of St. Paul's in Macao, China, on February 22, 2023.

Noemi Cassanelli/CNN

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A world in 40 square kilometers

Despite the common association of Macao with gambling by the rest of the world, its citizens have a different perspective.

Lai notes, "In Asia, people think that Macao is full of casinos, and I think they do not understand the other parts of Macao. When I go to Europe and mention that I come from Macao, most people are unsure of its location and I have to explain that it is a small city next to Hong Kong."

Marina Fernandes, an eighth generation Macanese from one of the oldest families on the island, agrees. She is proud of her heritage.

She is among the few in her community who still speak the unique patua dialect, a blend of Portuguese and Chinese. Marina values this connection to her roots.

In this photo from the mid-1800s, Macao was a busy Portuguese colony.

In this photo from the mid-1800s, Macao was a busy Portuguese colony.

According to her, the locals rarely visit the casinos. She mentions that only a small percentage of people actually go to the casino to gamble. Instead of gambling, they prefer to engage in other activities. Additionally, civil servants are not allowed to enter casinos. Gambling is predominantly for tourists and not for the locals.

Many employees of the casinos and luxury shops in Macao are now choosing to commute from Zhuhai, a more affordable city in mainland China just nearby. They are also opting to speak Mandarin Chinese instead of Cantonese due to the rising cost of living in Macao.

Even though Macao's special status as a SAR requires people traveling between Zhuhai and Macao to go through border control, the process is faster for permanent residents and citizens with Chinese national ID cards, thanks to express lanes.

In Macao's 2021 census, it was found that approximately one-sixth of the population is ethnically Chinese, with only a small number being Portuguese. Despite Portuguese being an official language and required on signage and government documents, many residents have chosen to learn English or Mandarin Chinese instead, particularly leading up to the handover in 1999.

When it comes to navigating around Macao, there are various transportation options available to residents and visitors alike.

Macao’s airport is situated on eastern Taipa and may be small, but it is modern and easy to navigate. The airport has a single terminal and primarily serves flights from the surrounding region, offering regular connections to places like Singapore, Jakarta, Hanoi, Bangkok, and Beijing. However, for flights to North America and Europe, locals will need to travel to nearby Hong Kong, Shenzhen, or Guangzhou.

In 2018, the colossal Hong Kong-Macao-Zhuhai Bridge was completed, earning the title of the world’s longest sea-crossing bridge. This impressive structure is just one of the many Chinese projects designed to connect and promote the “Greater Bay Area” region.

Despite the impressive $20 billion bridge, infrastructure in Macao is not as advanced. Unlike Hong Kong, where a well-organized metro system exists, Macao only has one LRT line that started in 2019. Locals without cars mainly rely on public buses for transportation. Unfortunately, Uber stopped its services in Macao back in 2017, and taxi drivers only accept cash.

Cultural power

After spending several years living in Portugal, Fernandes felt alienated and decided to return to Macao.

"We learned all about Portuguese history and knew every city in Portugal. We even proudly sang the Portuguese anthem," Fernandes recalls. "But especially after the handover, they didn't know us. They didn't understand us, and we felt like we weren't seen as Portuguese anymore."

She encountered stereotypes about Macao involving gambling, triad gangs, and prostitution, as well as old cliches about Chinese people like women wearing traditional qipao dresses and men having the single braid or ponytail hairstyle.

Now retired and with grown children, Fernandes dedicates her life to preserving and showcasing native Macanese culture. She is actively involved in the Macanese Association and has made traditional Macanese dishes like minchi more accessible by opening the canteen to the public. Her future plan is to establish a commercial restaurant to cater to tourists.

A Portuguese-style tram in Taipa, the southern of Macao's two islands.

A Portuguese-style tram in Taipa, the southern of Macao's two islands.

Eduardo Leal/Bloomberg/Getty Images

Due to its small size, Macao is strict about working policies for foreigners.

Ricardo Balocas, originally from Lisbon, moved to Macao in 2013 and has taken on various positions since then. He has worked in management roles at the Macao International Airport and at St. Joseph’s University, which is the only Catholic four-year university in Asia.

For most foreigners, like Balocas, who relocate to Macao, they become eligible for permanent residency after seven years of residing, working, and paying taxes in the region. This means that they can live in Macao without needing a work visa or a company to sponsor them.

Local residents in Macao with ID cards can access the city's socialized health care system. Macao citizens and permanent residents receive a yearly benefit of 10,000 patacas ($1,240) from the government.

On the other hand, the regulations are different for workers from countries like the Philippines, who often come to Macao for jobs as domestic helpers or security guards in casinos and high-end stores. Unfortunately, they are unable to obtain permanent residency or citizenship unless they marry a local resident.

According to the latest Henley Passport Index, Macao holds the 33rd spot for the most powerful passport globally. Portugal, on the other hand, is tied for the fifth position. Meanwhile, the passport of the Philippines is ranked 75th.

Maggie Hiufu Wong/CNN

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Life in ‘Little Lisbon’

Balocas believes that approximately half of Macao's expat Portuguese residents departed during the pandemic due to the city's stringent measures, such as a 21-day quarantine requirement.

He relies on establishments like Albergue 1601, a restaurant located in a historic building from the colonial era, to help preserve Macao's Portuguese heritage.

"This neighborhood has street lamps that are identical to the ones in Lisbon," he mentions. "When you take a stroll around, it almost feels like you're in Lisbon. I even joke that you could snap some photos here and claim you're in Lisbon without actually being there."

Balocas acknowledges that whether you have a fondness or disdain for casinos, they are hard to overlook. On his days off, he occasionally participates in a poker game: "I prefer playing against people rather than machines."

He believes that a recent government program that connects casinos with specific local streets and shops, encouraging their guests to explore and spend money, is a positive step. According to him, encouraging hotel guests to venture outside into Macao, which is densely packed and easy to navigate on foot, benefits the entire community.

Balocas expresses his desire for people to discover more of Macao beyond the casinos. He highlights the city's beautiful museums and neighborhoods, urging visitors to explore the diverse offerings beyond the gaming establishments.

Balocas is currently employed at a hospitality group and is in charge of managing Albergue 1601.

Whenever he has visitors in town, Balocas always takes them to the Macao Tower observation deck as the first stop. This way, they can appreciate how small and tightly packed the city of Macao is.

“Even nowadays that I’m 11 years here, sometimes I like to get lost. Don’t just explore the center, explore the alleys.”

Editor's P/S:

The article presents a multifaceted portrait of Macao, challenging the common perception of it as solely a gambling destination. It highlights the rich cultural heritage and unique identity of the city, influenced by Portuguese, Chinese, and Southeast Asian influences. Despite the presence of towering casinos, the article emphasizes that locals have a different perspective on gambling, with many not engaging in it. It also sheds light on the challenges faced by foreign workers in obtaining permanent residency or citizenship, showcasing the complexities of Macao's immigration policies.

The article also explores the efforts of locals to preserve and showcase Macanese culture, such as the work of Marina Fernandes in promoting traditional dishes and the Portuguese heritage of the city. It highlights the importance of appreciating Macao beyond its casinos and encourages visitors to explore its diverse offerings, including its historic neighborhoods, museums, and the vibrant community life. By delving into the lives of local residents and foreign workers, the article provides a nuanced understanding of Macao, revealing its cultural depth and the challenges it faces in balancing its gaming industry with its unique identity.