Janja Garnbret Sheds Light on Climbing's Cultural Challenge with Eating Disorders

Janja Garnbret, an Olympic gold medalist and eight-time world champion, has unparalleled insight into the world of competitive climbing.

With her extensive experience in the sport, the Slovenian athlete aims to shed light on the "cultural" challenges in climbing that are fueling a concerning prevalence of eating disorders.

She explains that the problem originates from an old belief that being lighter leads to faster climbing. This mindset has led to some young athletes skipping or reducing their meals, often with harmful consequences.

While she personally doesn't struggle with eating disorders, she has witnessed friends and fellow competitors harm their bodies in the quest for a smaller physique.

In climbing, there is a belief that being lighter makes you stronger, says Garnbret. She acknowledges that weight does play a role in the sport. It's important to find a balance - not too heavy, not too light, just somewhere in between.

“I’m a strong believer that you can do climbing, or any sport, in a healthy way.”

Garnbret competes during the women's lead climbing finals of the IFSC Climbing World Cup at Kletterzentrum Innsbruck on June 18, 2023 in Innsbruck, Austria.

Garnbret competes during the women's lead climbing finals of the IFSC Climbing World Cup at Kletterzentrum Innsbruck on June 18, 2023 in Innsbruck, Austria.

Marco Kost/Getty Images

Growing up, Garnbret looked up to climbing role models who were all "super skinny." This made her believe that she needed to lose weight in order to compete at the world level. She had friends who also fell into this trap.

She says that when you witness someone achieving success, you may feel a desire to emulate them. You might aspire to achieve similar outcomes and even resemble them in some way.

Fortunately, she shares that she personally experienced this feeling but managed to avoid getting caught in the comparison trap. She credits having supportive individuals around her who steered her in the right direction.

I had friends who were caught in this situation, and I did my best to assist them in every possible way. For about two years, I made efforts to support them in breaking free from it, but unfortunately, I was unable to make a difference. Witnessing them harm themselves both mentally and physically was truly difficult for me.

These kinds of encounters led Garnbret to share a post on Instagram in July 2023 regarding eating disorders.

"Are we raising future generations of skeletons? Hair that breaks easily, faces lacking vitality, pretending to be okay when you're not really feeling it?" She asked in a detailed post that aimed to shed light on a previously taboo subject.

Garnbret has developed into one of the best female sport climbers in history.

Garnbret has developed into one of the best female sport climbers in history.

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The post caught the attention of many in the climbing community and even gained support from renowned US rock climber Sasha DiGiulian.

Garnbret's message focused on Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (REDs), a condition that arises when individuals, regardless of gender, push themselves too hard through excessive training and inadequate nutrition in hopes of enhancing their athletic abilities. Oftentimes, they are unaware of the risks associated with not properly replenishing the energy they use during workouts, competitions, and everyday activities.

Medical experts warn that if REDs are not treated, they can harm an athlete's metabolism, bone health, immune system, cardiovascular health, menstrual cycle, mental health, and athletic performance.

It is important to change attitudes towards REDs in order to prevent these negative consequences.

The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) has acknowledged the issue and recently established new regulations concerning REDs. These regulations include a fresh event policy for athletes competing in the current season. The IFSC claims to be the pioneer in implementing these measures, which involve a screening process set to be fully operational by Paris 2024.

Illustration by Leah Abucayan/CNN/Getty

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IFSC President Marco Scolaris stated earlier this year that the new system demonstrates our dedication to the well-being of our athletes.

He emphasized that the policy serves a dual purpose - identifying athletes most vulnerable to health risks and increasing awareness on the issue. Additionally, it aims to offer support to those in need and safeguard the rights of every athlete.

The 24-year-old Garnbret acknowledges that changing attitudes will require time, but she is optimistic that things will improve for the new generation who are inspired by her achievements.

When asked about being a role model, she expresses feeling honored and happy to be in this position. Garnbret mentions that she always wants to give back to climbing since it has given her so much in return.

I have a strong desire to contribute to the community and support the younger generation by sharing the knowledge and experience that I have. My goal is to assist them in reaching their own goals and aspirations.

The Slovenian has become a role model to the new generation of young climbers.

The Slovenian has become a role model to the new generation of young climbers.

Marco Kost/Getty Images

Garnbret had a tough time last year when she had to take a long break from competing due to a broken toe. The injury happened right at the start of the Olympic qualifying season, and it was uncertain how long she would need to recover. This forced break took a toll on her mental health, as she shared.

Reflecting on my injury last year, I admit it was the toughest time in my career. Dealing with my first serious injury was not easy at all, especially in the beginning.

I had numerous doubts and negative thoughts swirling in my mind. I wasn't certain if I would ever reach the top again or if I would be able to climb normally like before.

Despite her injury, Garnbret refused to give up on her Olympic dreams. She couldn't compete at full capacity, but that didn't stop her from getting on the climbing wall. In fact, she began training with a boot cast on, concentrating on improving her upper body strength.

Garnbret believes that going through the rehabilitation process after her injury has actually improved her climbing skills.

She mentions, "I simply had to give my toe some time to heal, and once it did, I found myself climbing even better than I did prior to the injury."

I gained valuable insights about myself during this time, as well as about training and how I handle setbacks. This period helped me develop a deeper understanding of both myself and my approach to training.

Garnbret celebrates on the podium after winning gold at Tokyo 2020.

Garnbret celebrates on the podium after winning gold at Tokyo 2020.

Mohd Rasfan/AFP/Getty Images

With one Olympic medal already won in Tokyo 2020, Garnbret from Slovenia is eager for more success. She has her sights set on dominating in Paris, where she has already secured a spot in the Games. Garnbret's determination and drive are evident in her eyes as she looks forward to the challenges ahead.

"I always strive to be the best and once you have one Olympic medal, you always want another one. That's why I'm working really hard to achieve my goals. It's what keeps me going and I always aim to stay on top," she shared.

"I believe there's still room for me to grow mentally and reach my full potential. That's why I continue to work hard and push myself to be better," she added.

Editor's P/S:

Janja Garnbret's candid account of the prevalence of eating disorders in competitive climbing sheds light on a concerning issue that has remained largely hidden. Her personal experiences and observations highlight the harmful belief that a lighter physique equates to enhanced climbing abilities. This mindset has led young athletes to engage in unhealthy practices, such as skipping or reducing meals, which can have detrimental consequences for their physical and mental well-being. It is crucial to address this cultural challenge and promote a healthy approach to climbing that prioritizes overall well-being over weight loss.

Garnbret's role model status and her platform as an Olympic gold medalist provide her with a unique opportunity to influence positive change. Her advocacy for healthy eating habits and her willingness to share her own experiences can inspire young climbers to break free from the harmful cycle of weight obsession. By promoting a culture of body acceptance and emphasizing the importance of balanced nutrition, Garnbret can help create a more supportive and healthy environment for the next generation of climbers.