Italy's Pizza Debate: A Nation Divided by Pineapple Topping
Italy is in turmoil as one of its renowned pizza makers introduces pizza all'ananas - a pineapple pizza The nation is now fiercely divided over this controversial creation, sparking a heated debate on the traditional Italian culinary scene
Join Unlocking the World, CNN Travel's weekly newsletter for the latest updates in aviation, food, accommodations, and other travel trends. If you've been to Italy, you know there are unspoken rules to follow, especially when it comes to food. Having a cappuccino after 11 a.m. is a no-no, and spaghetti bolognese is considered a frightening idea. And don't even think about putting pineapple on your pizza - until now, that is.
2024 could be the year that pineapple pizza gains popularity in Italy, with Gino Sorbillo, a renowned Naples pizza maker, adding the controversial "ananas" to his menu on Via dei Tribunali, the most famous pizza street in the world's pizza capital.
Sorbillo's creation, known as "Margherita con Ananas," is priced at 7 euros ($7.70). However, this is not your average Hawaiian pizza: it is a pizza bianca, without the usual tomato layer, topped with three types of cheese, and featuring twice-cooked pineapple for a caramelized flavor.
Sorbillo, a pizzaiolo whose family has been in the business for three generations, stated to CNN that he developed the pizza to challenge "prejudice against food."
"Unfortunately, people often conform to the opinions of others or what they hear," he remarked.
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"In recent years, I've observed an increasing number of individuals disparaging ingredients or cooking methods simply because they were unfamiliar to most people in the past. As a result, I decided to incorporate these contentious ingredients - which are often vilified - into a Neapolitan pizza, with the goal of making them delicious."
Sorbillo, with 21 outlets worldwide including Miami, Tokyo, and Ibiza, emphasized the importance of making his pineapple pizza in the historic center of Naples, with its 3,000 years of history. The pineapple is prebaked in the oven, then cooled, and topped with smoked provola, extra virgin olive oil, and fresh basil before being cooked in his wood-fired oven.
After taking it out of the oven, he sprinkles "micro shavings" of two different types of smoked cacioricotta cheese along the crust: one from Sardinian goats, and the other from buffalos in the nearby Cilento area.
"It adds a delicious flavor," he explained.
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The uproar commences
Whether delicious or not, pineapple on pizza is unacceptable to most Italians. Sorbillo launched his pineapple pizza on social media this week which sparked controversy and received insults. The pizza has even been a topic of discussion on national TV. Despite the backlash, Sorbillo claims that those who have been willing to try it have liked it.
He mentioned that he had put it on the menu for a few weeks without mentioning it, and it was a hit with many customers, even those from Naples. However, there is divided opinion about it not only in Italy but also elsewhere, leading to numerous debates. He believes that people in general are not open to trying new things and are rather suspicious of anything unfamiliar.
The historic center of Naples has over 3,000 years of history -- much of it pizza-dominated.
Gino Sorbillo
Barbara Politi, a food journalist who rushed straight to Naples to try it, was positive.
"I really like it, it's fresh," she said. "Did you know that pineapple has been a part of Europe's food culture since Christopher Columbus tasted it in Guadeloupe in 1493 and brought it back?
"When Sorbillo introduced it, I became curious and researched the history of pineapple in Europe. I discovered that it has been a longstanding part of European food culture. So, in essence, we're discussing a matter of mentality and taste preferences."
"I liked it, its a bit like sushi - at the start you might not love it but then it becomes a fixation."
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Sorbillo believes that pineapple on pizza is just another creative topping, similar to the more adventurous ingredients that pizzaioli have been experimenting with in recent years. He states, "In the last few years, people have been using ingredients that were never used five or six years ago. Now we use speck from Alto Adige, mortadella, chopped pistachios, powdered olives, mozzarella foam, even jams. Why shouldn't we rediscover pineapple? Pizza has been undergoing a transformation for the past five or six years."
He expressed his belief that his pineapple pizza would be confusing to his pizzaiolo ancestors, stating, "Things should be tasted first, and then you express your view. In the past, not even ham or arugula went on pizzas, now they’re normal."
Sorbillo has since created a ketchup pizza to goad his critics even more.
Gino Sorbillo
He refuses to use a tomato base, as he believes that using two acidic fruits wouldn't result in a good product. Instead, he opts for three smoked cheeses, which transforms the pizza and creates a different taste.
He stated that the history of Hawaiians, their use of the tomato, signifies that "people criticize it without making an effort to understand it, as I have done."
"Clearly, there is controversy from those who argue against its use. But why be so offended? No one is requiring you to purchase it."
"Choosing the right ingredients is crucial in creating delicious food. When ingredients are paired well, the outcome is delightful. Those who are passionate about food are enjoying it, indicating that we have succeeded."
Sorbillo has actually used the feedback to innovate and create a new, divisive pizza.
After serving the pineapple pizza, someone challenged me to make a ketchup pizza. So, I took on the challenge and another debate broke out. But this wasn't just any ketchup pizza - I used homemade sauce made from red and yellow Italian datterino tomatoes on a white base with smoked provola. I proudly filmed myself eating it surrounded by bottles of homemade ketchup, declaring it to be delicious.
"He said that just by changing one ingredient or one step in the preparation, a completely new dish can be created. I'm confident that pineapple pizza will soon become a feature on menus in pizzerias across Naples, and even beyond."
