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Finding a diamond in nature is no easy task, considering they are the hardest material on Earth.
For centuries, people have been digging deep into the Earth to find diamonds, resulting in the creation of massive manmade pits in countries like Russia and South Africa that can go as deep as 625 meters (2,050 feet).
This extensive mining process not only affects the environment but also puts the workers at risk due to hazardous conditions and practices that harm ecosystems.
Mining is not the only way to obtain diamonds. Lab-grown diamonds have been around since the 1950s, and advancements in technology have made it possible for labs to produce high-quality gem crystals at a fraction of the cost — up to 80% cheaper — without the environmental and ethical issues associated with mining.
Artificially growing diamonds also opens up the possibility of diamond production in unlikely locations, such as the desert.
The United Arab Emirates (UAE) is known for being a major player in the diamond industry, even though it doesn't have any diamond mines. Despite this, entrepreneur Mohamed Sabeg saw potential in not just trading diamonds, but also in growing them.
In 2022, he took the initiative to co-found 2DOT4 Diamonds, a company based in Dubai. This made him the pioneer in producing, cutting, and polishing lab-grown diamonds within the UAE.
“Our idea was to bring the mine to the consumer,” says Sabeg. “Instead of having diamonds flying all around the world, the diamond is produced and sold locally.”
Mohamed Sabeg, co-founder of Dubai-based company 2DOT4, checking a lab-grown diamond.
Mohamed Sabeg, co-founder of Dubai-based company 2DOT4, checking a lab-grown diamond.
Paul Devitt / CNN
2DOT4, the company's name, is inspired by the refractive index of a diamond. This index measures the speed at which light travels through a diamond compared to air, which is about 2.4 times slower.
Sabeg believes that having a name connected to a physical characteristic of the gem signifies that lab-created pieces are just as genuine as natural ones.
He explains, "The only distinction is that we regulate the pressure, heat, and gases. With a mined diamond, you can't control these factors - the Earth does it."
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To start growing a diamond, you need a small seed diamond, whether it's man-made in a lab or mined from the earth. This seed, typically 0.3 to 0.6 millimeters thick, is essential for the process. (At 2DOT4, they create their own seeds using diamonds grown in their facility.)
Once the seed diamond is ready, it is placed in a special reactor where it is exposed to gases like hydrogen, methane, oxygen, and argon. The seed also experiences high pressure, reaching up to 180 torrs, which is similar to about two-thirds of the pressure at the peak of Mount Everest. The temperature in the reactor rises to 1,000 degrees Celsius (1,832 degrees Fahrenheit), allowing carbon to gradually deposit onto the thin slice of the seed diamond.
Then, it’s a matter of time for it to grow in volume.
Diamonds growing inside a reactor at 2DOT4 in Dubai, UAE.
Diamonds growing inside a reactor at 2DOT4 in Dubai, UAE.
Paul Devitt / CNN
Sabeg explains that the speed of growth is determined by various parameters. The slower the speed, the higher the quality of the diamonds.
2DOT4 typically grows its diamonds at a speed of approximately 0.01 millimeters per hour. This means that within 24 hours, the stone increases in length by the thickness of two sheets of paper.
Once the diamond reaches a height of five millimeters, it is known as a "block." There are three options at this stage. The block can be sliced into more seeds for growing additional diamonds. Alternatively, 2DOT4 may choose to cut and polish the gem based on demand. The finished product can then be sold to jewelers and designers or used to create unique jewelry pieces in-house.
A worldwide gem
Currently, the production of lab-grown diamonds is mainly dominated by the US, China, and India. Analyst Paul Zimnisky, based in the US, states that China and India together contribute to more than two-thirds of the global output.
Lab-grown diamonds are not only popular in the jewelry industry but also widely used in various other sectors. These diamonds are especially valued for their ability to create tools that can cut through tough materials like concrete, marble, and metals.
China has a long history of manufacturing synthetic diamonds for industrial use, giving them the expertise and resources to become a leading producer of lab-grown diamonds for jewelry, according to Zimnisky.
A rough diamond block ready to be polished, or sliced into seed diamonds.
A rough diamond block ready to be polished, or sliced into seed diamonds.
Paul Devitt / CNN
India has long been a leader in diamond cutting and polishing, and recently embraced LGD technology to enter production. The country underwent a tax reform in the sector last year and committed additional funding to grow its man-made diamond industry.
According to Ahmed Bin Sulayem, CEO and executive chairman of the Dubai Multi Commodities Center (DMCC), expanding into the lab-grown diamonds industry could be a significant move for the UAE. The country, known as a top diamond trading hub, is striving to diversify its economy away from oil. DMCC hosted the first Lab-Grown Diamond Symposium, highlighting the potential of this growing industry.
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Bin Sulayem expresses excitement about Dubai's position in the LGD industry, which represents the merging of technology and trade, showcasing immense potential for growth.
He notes that in the past, people may have been reluctant to accept synthetic or lab-grown diamonds, but younger generations are now more conscious of ethical and environmental concerns related to traditional mining practices. Additionally, they are attracted to the affordability of luxury items, prompting the industry to evolve.
However, breaking into the LGD production sector may pose challenges. Zimnisky suggests that competing with established players like India and China on a large scale will be tough without a competitive edge, unique niche, or specialized approach.
Inside the 2DOT4 lab in Dubai.
Inside the 2DOT4 lab in Dubai.
Paul Devitt / CNN
Sparkling future
More UAE companies, like Eviqe Diamonds from HRA Group, are following in the footsteps of 2DOT4 by establishing their lab-grown diamond businesses in Dubai. Eviqe Diamonds recently opened its production facility in the Emirate. Local brands such as Etika and Eayni are also focusing on marketing their designs using lab-grown gems exclusively.
The DMCC aims to promote the practice of performing the entire production process in-house. This approach adds value to the final product and helps to enhance the local industry.
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Bin Sulayem advises the lab-grown diamond industry to prioritize creating beautiful pieces of art instead of focusing solely on selling the diamonds.
Sabeg hopes that 2DOT4's creations will set the stage for the future of lab-grown diamond production in a country that currently imports more diamonds than any other in the world.
“Our way of looking at what we are doing is to set a standard in the industry,” he says.
Editor's P/S:
The advent of lab-grown diamonds has sparked a revolution in the diamond industry. Not only do they offer an ethical and sustainable alternative to mined diamonds, but they also open up the possibility of diamond production in unlikely locations like the desert. The United Arab Emirates, a major player in the diamond trade, is embracing this new technology, with companies like 2DOT4 Diamonds leading the way in producing and cutting lab-grown diamonds within the country. This shift towards lab-grown diamonds not only benefits consumers by providing more affordable and ethical options but also has the potential to diversify the UAE's economy and establish it as a hub for this growing industry.
The production of lab-grown diamonds involves using a small seed diamond and exposing it to high pressure and temperature in a reactor, allowing carbon to gradually deposit onto the seed. By controlling the growth rate and other parameters, it is possible to produce high-quality diamonds at a fraction of the cost and environmental impact associated with traditional mining. Lab-grown diamonds are chemically and physically identical to mined diamonds, making them an ideal choice for jewelry, tools, and other industrial applications. As the lab-grown diamond industry continues to grow, it will be interesting to see how it shapes the future of the diamond trade and the global economy.