How an Adventurous US Couple's Bold Move to France Sparked an Unbelievable Life Transformation

During their summer vacation in 2001, Robin Johnson and Jim Thaman unexpectedly stumbled upon the picturesque village of Cajarc in southwestern France. Little did they know that their impromptu visit would transform their lives indefinitely. Entranced by the charming town nestled in the serene Lot Valley region, the American couple began contemplating the possibility of making Cajarc their permanent home.

And a year later, they were doing just that.

"When people ask, how did you find this place? We say, well the place found us," Johnson, who is an artist, tells CNN Travel.

Johnson, originally from Michigan, expresses that the couple had always fantasized about residing in a foreign land. They had been in a relationship for approximately two years prior to embarking on this journey and found themselves fortunate enough to be able to "semi-retire." The opportunity presented itself as a fresh start for them to build their life together from scratch.

Blank canvas

US couple Robin Johnson and Jim Thaman fell in love with Cajarc, France, after visiting the village in the summer of 2001.

Hemis/Alamy Stock Photo

Thaman, a woodworker and musician from California, admits that although he always had a deep admiration for France, he had never seriously contemplated residing there until that moment. "I've always had a strong affection for France, but if I ever envisioned myself relocating to another country, Italy would have been my first choice," he explains. "Therefore, it was quite intriguing when we unexpectedly found ourselves in France."

So what was it about Cajarc that immediately drew them in?

The pair say that they were struck by the beauty of the town, along with its "very, very hip scene" and "interesting characters."

While immersing themselves in the surroundings, from browsing the bustling local market to leisurely wandering the quaint, meandering alleyways and indulging in savory pizza at a charming waterfront eatery, their awe only swelled. Motivated by the exorbitant costs in the United States, this family opted to purchase an affordable property in Italy.

Due to their imminent return flight to the US, the couple had limited time to do anything except daydream and make plans for future visits. Unexpectedly though, they learned that their flight was scheduled for the following day, prompting them to change their plans and embark on a quest to find a residence in the alluring town of Cajarc.

Upon arrival, they immediately headed straight to a local real estate office. Unfortunately, they were unable to speak to anyone and thus opted to visit a notary or lawyer in hopes of finding better luck there.

Luckily, they discovered that a relative of the town's mayor owned a house that had been available for purchase for a whopping eight years. They managed to arrange a visit to the neglected property, which was priced at approximately $36,000.

While the house, which they say had been empty for eight years, and "hadnt been remodeled in probably 70 years," wasnt in the best condition, they saw potential in it.

Postcard moment

Robin and Jim say they were instantly welcomed by the locals, and spent many of their first years in the town going to parties.

Robin Johnson

They were particularly impressed by a tiny courtyard behind the property, as well as the garden area.

"Not that many places in the village have nice outside spaces," explains Thaman.

The sale price was also a huge draw.

"It was incredibly affordable," Johnson comments. "With our funds readily available, we had to decide: a new car or a house in France? We ultimately opted for the latter and returned to California the next day as planned. We took some time to carefully consider our options before taking the plunge."

"We had to engage in some introspection," Johnson states. "It was a moment of contemplating the outcome. If we proceed and encounter errors, then it becomes inconsequential.

"However, by abstaining from taking action, we will forever question the possibilities. Ultimately, we were prepared to embrace the gamble."

The couple asked the owner about the courtyard and learned that it was not included with the house. However, as a bonus, the owner offered them a garden plot next to the river. This US-based couple purchased a budget-friendly apartment in France to provide their children with a unique upbringing.

"That sealed the deal for us," says Johnson.

After making their decision, they wrote to the homeowner to offer to buy the 800-year-old house, and received a reply by postcard accepting their offer.

"Jim contacted the notary and inquired about the necessary steps," Johnson recollects. "The notary mentioned that the postcard would suffice as our agreement due to the seller's credibility as a reputable businesswoman."

In October, Thaman returned to France to officially sign the documents. The couple expressed their delight at how effortlessly the purchasing procedure unfolded.

"Everything went so smoothly," says Johnson. "We felt that it was really meant to be."

They married in April 2002 and were on a plane to France preparing to begin their new lives by June.

Upon their arrival in Cajarc, they promptly commenced the renovation of their newly acquired residence by demolishing the walls, aiming to create an open and spacious setting.

"Many of the houses here consist of cramped compartments," Thaman elucidates. "Hence, my primary instrument was a formidable sledgehammer."

The couple had prior experience working on a house together, which gave them some knowledge in renovations.

"We acquired a mattress to casually place on the floor," mentions Johnson. "It was reminiscent of our college days."

The walls were colored in a traditional manner by utilizing a blend of clay sourced from a nearby hillside and lime.

Johnson managed to discover several pre-owned lighting fixtures for their residence, among them an $80 chandelier that had seemingly withstood the test of World War II.

Fantasy turned reality

They paid around $36,000 for their home, which had been empty for years, and have completed most of the renovation work themselves.

Robin Johnson

They characterized their initial years in Cajarc as a surreal experience, akin to residing in a whimsical realm.

"Even mundane tasks such as disposing of the trash became enjoyable," Johnson shares. "Doing the laundry was a delight. As I hung the clothes, the distant melody of a squeezebox being played would serenade my ears."

"We felt as though we were characters in a captivating movie, creating a sense of exhilaration that proved difficult to convey to our friends back home in the United States."

"We were the first foreigners to move into our village," says Johnson. "Coming from California, we were like rock stars."

This family bought a cheap house in Italy because the US is too expensive

They found themselves being invited to "raves in the hill" and various other parties around the town.

"We were in our 50s," says Johnson. "And we were hanging out with people in their 20s.

According to the couple, a significant number of their acquaintances are actually the parents or even grandparents of the younger locals who warmly welcomed them in the early stages.

Countless friendships blossomed during their time spent in the garden. They would jestingly remark that they had "acquired a riverfront garden, and it happened to come with a house."

They warmly reminisce about their cherished bond with their elderly neighbors, affectionately referring to themselves as "their American children" as their neighbors proudly introduced them to everyone they knew.

"The locals expressed their appreciation for our efforts in rejuvenating a house that had remained unattended for a span of eight years," Johnson adds.

"They were delighted by our initiative and dedication to refurbishing the house."

They estimate that theyve spent somewhere between $10,000 to $12,000 on the renovations so far and are

Ongoing project

Robin and Jim say they've spent between $10,000 to $12,000 on the renovation work so far.

Robin Johnson

"We set it up that way, because frankly, we didnt want to have a lot of people coming and visiting us," admits Johnson.

During their second year in the town, the couple was overwhelmed with an influx of visitors. While they cherished the company of their loved ones, the constant need to accommodate others' vacation schedules became a hindrance. Realizing this, Johnson asserts, "We then established boundaries for visitors," as they aimed to concentrate their efforts on improving their house and becoming an integral part of the local community.

The couple possesses long-stay visas, requiring them to limit their stay in France to 180 days per year. As a result, they split their time between France and California, residing in their second home during the remainder of the year. They express satisfaction with this arrangement and particularly enjoy spending summers in France.

The 23-year-old who spent three years living in the Tower of London

"Its just very active here in the summer," explains Johnson. "And then in the winter, everything kind of shuts down."

Thaman enjoys the winters in California, where they spend time with Thaman's children and grandchildren and attend to any real estate business matters. "The winters in California are truly enjoyable," Thaman remarks, referring to their beautiful house and the musical companions they have found there. Having two distinct lifestyles is something they truly appreciate.

Both particularly love the simplicity of living in Cajarc, and say their worlds are much more carefree there.

"I dont have a dishwasher," says Johnson. "I dont have a clothes dryer.

Simple pleasures

They love the simplicity of their life in France, and are very grateful that they happened to drop into Cajarc over two decades ago.

Robin Johnson

We lack many luxuries. We choose to ride our bicycles, host dinner gatherings, and go for swims in the river.

Our lifestyle here is extremely uncomplicated, and we genuinely enjoy it. However, when we return to the United States, it becomes apparent that everything revolves around money and material possessions. This makes it somewhat challenging for us to truly connect with people there.

Thaman expresses the same sentiment, noting the stark contrast between consumerism in California and the comparatively lesser extent of it in Cajarc when they initially settled there.

"People in France purchase items and tend to keep them," he remarks.

Having spent more than 20 years in France for half of the year, Johnson acknowledges her ongoing struggle with the language. "Jim grasps it much more effortlessly," she explains, pointing out that she finds it challenging to keep pace with the conversation in a bustling dinner party with multiple conversations happening simultaneously.

"I have a stronger grasp on comprehension than verbal expression. It remains a difficult task, but it is an ongoing endeavor that I am dedicated to improving. Progress is being made."

Over the years following their home purchase, a larger number of expatriates have relocated to the town. Nevertheless, the couple asserts that approximately 95% of their acquaintances there are French.

"We are amicable with the other expats, but we don't consider them as friends," Johnson states. "Our intention of living here is to be part of the French community, not the expat community."

When fellow Americans seek their counsel on purchasing property in France, they typically recommend renting a place in a village temporarily before committing to buying, as the outcome may not always be favorable.

"We have been fortunate," Thaman acknowledges. "We have encountered numerous individuals who impulsively pursued something, only to find it unsuccessful. Consequently, they returned to their place of origin."

Undoubtedly, the couple deeply appreciates the chance occurrence of settling in Cajarc back in 2001, and assert that there is no other town or village they would prefer to reside in.

Johnson said, "Whenever I come across one of those books detailing individuals relocating to Tuscany, I am reminded of how much richer our own experience has been." Over a meal at the very restaurant where they had first imagined a life in France during their initial trip to Cajarc, they enjoyed pizza with friends and couldn't help but dwell on the sheer delight their experience had evolved into.

"The reality is so much better than we imagined," says Johnson.