From Whales to Wonders: A Fascinating Journey of Island Transformation

During a trip to the Azores in springtime, visitors can witness extraordinary displays of whales and dolphins, ranging from breathtaking humpback breaches to captivating dolphin acrobatics. Located in the North Atlantic Ocean, this secluded Portuguese archipelago is comprised of nine volcanic islands approximately 900 miles west of Lisbon. Its strategic position along the migration path of various whale species attracts an abundance of these marine creatures. From March to June, which marks the whale migration season, fortunate tourists may even have the opportunity to witness the majestic blue whale and fin whale, which are the largest creatures to exist on Earth.

In addition to the migratory whales, the Azores are home to resident cetaceans such as sperm whales and various dolphin species, which can be observed throughout the year. With almost one-third of the world's 94 known cetacean species spotted in this archipelago, it consistently ranks among the top destinations for whale watching.

However, the historical relationship between Azoreans and whales has not always been peaceful. For many years, the islands were a place of brutal exploitation where these magnificent creatures were relentlessly hunted for their valuable resources.

According to Rui de Souza Martins, an emeritus professor of Anthropology at the University of the Azores, settlers from mainland Portugal began populating the archipelago in the 15th century. These early inhabitants, who were mostly farmers, focused on collecting dead whales they found at sea or on the coast. The whale blubber was then boiled down to produce oil for lamps.

During the 18th century, the resident population of sperm whales in the Azores caught the attention of the United States. Whaling ships from Nantucket and New Bedford, Massachusetts, embarked on a roughly 2,300-mile journey eastward to engage in hunting. Since crude oil had not yet been discovered, the demand for spermaceti (a waxy substance obtained from the head of a sperm whale) and whale oil (derived from blubber) for lighting and other purposes made whaling a highly profitable industry.

These ships, resembling factories in design, would carefully lower small wooden boats into the ocean to begin the hunt, then retrieve the deceased creature and bring it onboard the larger ship for further processing.

Not only did the whale carcasses come onboard, but the Americans also enlisted Azorean men at reduced wages, luring them with the prospect of settling in the US after a designated period of service on the ships. Numerous individuals chose to emigrate to Massachusetts alongside the whalers.

Whale hunting was still going strong in the Azores in the 1950s.

V. Giannella/De Agostini/Getty Images

In the mid-19th century, some emigrants returned to the archipelago with knowledge of whale hunting and boat construction. This led to the establishment of the local whaling industry, where they built canoes and equipment for hunting with a team of seven individuals. Subsequently, factories were established on the islands to process whale oil, meat, and bones.

While whaling may be considered exceedingly cruel by today's standards, it was a matter of survival during that time period. The islands lacked other employment opportunities, leaving many whalers - primarily agricultural workers under wealthy landowners - with no swimming skills, yet risking their lives to support their families.

José Carlos Garcia, a sociologist and anthropology researcher, highlights that whale hunting and the subsequent commercial utilization of its byproducts served as a vital means of income for the local community. The proceeds derived from whaling were essential in covering expenses such as groceries, children's education, and other basic necessities. Offering insights into the challenging lives of Azorean whalers, documentaries such as "The Last Whalers" from 1969 and the recent Netflix production "The Last Whalers of São Miguel" in 2019 shed light on their experiences.

Now, let's move on to the next text: "Best places to watch whales around the world."

The slow decline

The whale hunting industry declined over roughly a century.

Pedro Madruga/Visit Azores

The era, however, was not long-lasting. As soon as crude oil was unearthed in 1859, the demand for whale oil plummeted significantly in the subsequent decades. It wasn't until the industry's demise in 1987 that the methods employed by Azorean whalers diverged from the factory ships utilized by Americans. They persisted in hunting from their modest wooden boats armed with handmade weapons, targeting only a limited number of sperm whales. In contrast, counterparts in other nations employed state-of-the-art vessels and advanced harpoons, resulting in the devastation of numerous whale species.

To tackle the alarming decrease in populations, the International Whaling Commission implemented a ban on commercial whaling in 1982. Portugal lent its support to this ban, which had implications for the Azores - an independent region of the country. The combined efforts of local and global conservation organizations exerted enough pressure to ultimately bring an end to whaling in the Azores. The final documented instance of whale hunting occurred in 1987 when a group of disgruntled whalers from Pico island claimed their last kill.

New beginnings

Sperm whales can be seen around the Azores.

The shift away from whaling sparked the emergence of fresh industries and methods, driven by external forces. In 1990, Serge Viallele, a French citizen, established the inaugural whale watching business on Pico island within the archipelago.

According to Miguel Cravinho, co-owner of Terra Azul, a whale watching company on São Miguel island, Viallele demonstrated a way to sustainably coexist with whales, without harming them. As a result, the emphasis has shifted from whaling to eco-tourism, conservation, and education.

Modern-day whale watching excursions go beyond providing entertainment for tourists; they also contribute to research efforts. Each trip gathers valuable data, which local scientists utilize to investigate whale behaviors and migration patterns. Cravinho describes this approach as an "educational approach to whale watching."

There are currently almost 20 whale watching companies operating in the Azores, all adhering to internationally recognized standards and guidelines set by the International Whaling Commission (IWC), as well as local regulations.

Boats are required to maintain a maximum speed of 10 knots when observing whales, approach them only from a 90-degree angle behind, and maintain a minimum distance of 50 meters (164 feet) - or three times that distance if there is a mother and calf present.

There are strict rules for observing whales and dolphins.

Francisco Garcia/Courtesy Terra Azul

Only three boats may hover near the whales at any time, for a maximum 15 minutes - and sailing through a pod is not allowed.

In order to minimize disturbance, most whale watching companies in the Azores utilize RIBs (rigid inflatable boats) to reduce noise and emissions. The license system strictly limits the number of whale watching boats allowed, with a maximum number issued per island or per zone for smaller islands. Whale watchers now utilize lookout points called "vigias," originally used by whalers to spot prey, to guide boats to different areas and prevent them from gathering around the same animals.

"The whale has become the central focus of a new and dynamic culture that values its ecological, scientific, heritage, and tourist significance," says de Souza Martins. Museums throughout the islands also highlight the history of whaling in the Azores, and during summer regattas, traditional 40-foot whaling canoes are repurposed for sailing and rowing.

Whaling boats are now used for less bloody purposes.

In February 2023, the archipelago achieved the esteemed recognition of being designated as a Whale Heritage Site by the World Cetacean Alliance. This is hailed as the ultimate standard for ethical whale watching, according to Jean-Michel Cousteau, the honorary president. It proudly holds the distinction of being the sixth site globally and only the second in Europe to attain this prestigious status.

Whale Heritage Sites are designated areas that have successfully achieved a harmonious and sustainable equilibrium between nature, the local community, and the expectations of visitors.

These destinations are required to have conducted thorough research on whale watching within their vicinity and are committed to ongoing research, education, and awareness initiatives. Additionally, they are dedicated to organizing cultural events that exalt and celebrate cetaceans.

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A new risk

If not done properly, whale watching can be damaging for both the whales and the local community.

Concerns have emerged regarding the impact of whale watching tours on whales and their behavior, as tourist numbers rise and these tours become more popular. Luís Silva, a senior research fellow at the Centre for Research in Anthropology in Lisbon, examines the potential challenges presented by the whale watching industry in his paper on whale watching as eco-tourism. These challenges include the stress experienced by the whales and the distribution of profits, which often favor tour company owners rather than the local community.

For now, whale watching remains a major draw for visitors to the islands.

"The whale has had such a remarkable journey in the Azores," says Garcia.

Content must be written in English:

"Initially feared as a sea monster, it has transformed into a valuable asset. Today, it stands as a symbol of our shared identity and global significance."

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