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Thailand is known to have over 200 varieties of mangoes.
When it comes to making one of the country's favorite desserts, khao nieow mamuang, experts believe that only a few types of mangoes are suitable. This dish, more commonly known as mango sticky rice globally, may seem simple at first glance.
Slices of sweet, ripe mango are placed beside a heap of sticky rice drizzled with coconut cream and sprinkled with yellow mung beans. When prepared correctly, it creates a magical combination of flavors and textures. One person who has mastered this balance is 63-year-old Varee Jennsuwan, known as the queen of mango sticky rice in Bangkok.
Her shop in Bangkok’s busy downtown Thonglor neighborhood, Mae Varee, has been operating since 1981.
“The best dessert during summertime in Thailand is mango and sticky rice,” she tells CNN.
People line up outside of Bangkok's Mae Varee shop in 2022.
People line up outside of Bangkok's Mae Varee shop in 2022.
During the months of March to May, you can enjoy the best mango sticky rice. This is when mangoes are at their sweetest and most plentiful, making them a perfect match for the aromatic sticky rice. Plus, during this time, you can usually find this delicious treat at a low price.
Thailand’s nam dok mai mangoes are the preferred choice for mango sticky rice due to their sweet taste and smooth consistency. Varee believes that the best nam dok mai mangoes can be found in the Bangkhla district of Chacheonseo province.
Another variety commonly used in mango sticky rice is Oak Rong, which Varee recommends sourcing from the Damnoen Saduak district in Ratchaburi province.
She mentions that Oak Rong mangoes are hard to come by, with limited availability in January and increasing in March and April.
Oak Rong mangoes are primarily popular among Thais, with most foreigners being more familiar with the Nam Dok Mai variety.
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Mangoes may be the star of khao nieow mamuang, but according to Varee, the other ingredients are equally crucial.
At her shop, they carefully choose sticky rice grains from Chiang Rai, Thailand's northernmost province. The coconuts used are from Suratthani province in the south, chosen for their strong flavor that pairs well with the sticky rice. Additionally, the yellow mung beans are baked instead of fried to add a touch of crunch to the dish.
"We even get our salt from Samut Sakorn," she mentions, a coastal province located south of Bangkok.
When it comes to their customers, she explains that they serve a diverse mix of both Thai locals and foreign tourists.
Varee mentions that the majority of her foreign customers come from China, Hong Kong, and Singapore. She explains that when they visit her shop, they often check in on social media. According to them, checking in is important to show that they have truly experienced Thailand. This is known as the Milli effect.
Thailand is known for its love of khao neao mamuang, a popular dessert made of mango sticky rice. One famous Thai rapper, Milli, whose real name is Danupha Khanatheerakul, is a big fan of this sweet treat.
In 2022, Milli had the opportunity to perform at the Coachella music festival in California. At the end of her show, she celebrated by indulging in a delicious bowl of mango sticky rice.
The incident sparked a huge demand for the dish across Thailand. In Bangkok, social media and news sites were flooded with pictures of the city's popular mango sticky rice shops experiencing a surge in orders. This was evident from the long lines of delivery drivers waiting outside.
K Panich has been dishing out mango sticky rice since 1932.
K Panich has been dishing out mango sticky rice since 1932.
Pongpat Patumsuwon
K Panich, one of the oldest mango sticky rice vendors in the city, has been benefiting from the Milli effect. Since its opening in 1932, it has been a favorite spot for locals and tourists, located just a short 15-minute walk from the Grand Palace, a popular historic site.
A sign displayed at the entrance of this cozy traditional shophouse proudly shows off its culinary excellence - it has been awarded Michelin's Bib Gourmand every year since 2019, recognizing its great value and top-notch quality.
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During a recent weekday morning, a small crowd had already gathered by 8:30 a.m. It was a mix of delivery drivers, local customers, and foreign tourists sitting on wooden stools near the counter outside, eagerly waiting for their orders. Tables, baskets, and crates were piled high with bright yellow Nam Dok Mai mangoes.
If customers preferred to eat their food onsite, they were taken to a nearby smoothie shop across the street. There, they could sit and enjoy their delicious mango sticky rice at one of the tables provided.
Khun Nan, a manager on site, reveals the key to the shop's lasting success is their dedication to sourcing high-quality ingredients from various regions in the country. She emphasizes the importance of using top-notch raw materials, as evidenced by the shop's popularity among foreign tourists who visit daily.
K Panich offers the option for customers to purchase whole, uncut mangoes from suppliers who set up outside the shop. One of these suppliers is Saowalak Chaimeesuk, 54, who explains that the popularity of tropical fruits like mangoes in Thailand is often tied to nostalgia.
According to Saowalak, in the past, Nam Dok Mai mangoes were not available year-round. However, advancements in agriculture now allow for these mangoes to be enjoyed in any season.
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A blend of different cooking styles
Mango sticky rice is not only a common street snack, but it can also be found on the dessert lists of upscale restaurants nationwide, sometimes with a contemporary touch.
R-Haan in Bangkok, a Michelin-starred restaurant, offers a delightful nam dok mai mango parfait that stays true to the authentic flavors. This dessert is accompanied by coconut milk ice cream and a crispy pancake filled with sweet candied coconut.
According to R-Haan co-owner/chef Chumpol Jangprai, mango sticky rice has a long history in Thailand, dating back to the late Ayutthaya period (1351-1767). References to this popular dish can be found in the centuries that followed.
The chef also mentioned that recipes from King Rama V’s reign (1868-1910) included a dish called 'khao niew moon,' which is glutinous rice steamed with sweetened coconut milk.
Mangoes, although not native to Thailand, have been grown in the country for many years. They are often served with dishes like khao nieow mamuang, a popular dessert made with sweet sticky rice. This dessert may not have a long history, but it shows how Thai culinary traditions have evolved by incorporating local ingredients like mangoes.
“It’s a testament to the ingenuity and deliciousness that Thai cuisine is known for,” says Chumpol.
Editor's P/S:
The article showcases the captivating world of mango sticky rice in Thailand, a culinary delight that embodies the country's rich flavors and culinary history. It highlights the passion of Mae Varee, known as the "queen of mango sticky rice," and her unwavering commitment to sourcing the finest ingredients from across the nation. Varee believes that every element, from the sweet Nam Dok Mai mangoes to the aromatic sticky rice and baked mung beans, contributes to the dish's symphony of textures and flavors.
The article also sheds light on the "Milli effect," sparked by a Thai rapper's indulgence in mango sticky rice at a music festival in California. This social media phenomenon has fueled a surge in demand for the dessert, showcasing the dish's enduring popularity among both locals and tourists. The article provides valuable insights into the ingredients, techniques, and cultural significance of mango sticky rice, emphasizing its evolution from a simple street snack to a cherished delicacy found in both traditional and upscale dining experiences. It serves as a testament to the creativity and deliciousness that define Thai cuisine, a testament to the ingenuity and deliciousness that Thai cuisine is known for.