Exploring Authentic Turkish Cuisine in a Remote Setting

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Just off the D515 state highway to Kuşadası, a winding paved road passes through the pine trees and rolling olive groves of the Mediterranean scenery to arrive at the village of Caferli.

Few people would expect to find it, but here you can discover one of Turkey's most innovative destination restaurants. The menu at Çiy restaurant is unique, inspired by the surrounding natural environment, unlike the traditional dishes usually associated with this food-loving country.

Chef Damla Uğurtaş is the creative mind behind Çiy restaurant, which boasts a stunning view of an evergreen valley and the sparkling Aegean Sea. Diners can enjoy their meals on the outdoor terrace, shaded by a beautiful olive tree.

Uğurtaş, originally from Izmir on the Turkish west coast, is about 60 miles (100 kilometers) north of the restaurant. The remote location is a reflection of her own unique journey, which led her from studying English literature to entering the world of fine dining.

Her dream for Çiy has always been to have it situated in a village that captures the essence of the Aegean region, where the spirit of the trees and the sea can be felt. "Since the inception of Çiy, I dreamt that it would be located in a village, which reflected the character of the Aegean, in a place where we could feel the spirit of the trees and even the sea," she tells CNN.

After graduating from MSA, a well-known culinary arts academy in Istanbul, Uğurtaş worked her way up in the restaurant industry. She eventually became the kitchen chef at 7Bilgeler, a famous vineyard located in the nearby village of Gökçealan.

However, Uğurtaş had a dream of opening her own restaurant. To make this dream a reality, she took on a challenging renovation and building project. She transformed and expanded a group of traditional buildings in the quiet village of Caferli into her unique and innovative dining establishment.

Love for nature

Sibel Uysal, 20, poses for a selfie with her friends before the Eastern Express departs from Ankara province en route from Ankara to Kars, Turkey, April 9, 2018. REUTERS/Umit Bektas SEARCH "BEKTAS EXPRESS" FOR THIS STORY. SEARCH "WIDER IMAGE" FOR ALL STORIES.

Çiy Restaurant is situated in the countryside above the Turkish west coast city of Kuşadası.

Courtesy Çiy Restaurant & Konukevi

The restaurant and attached guest house create a village-like atmosphere from the main gate. Natural stone structures and pathways wind through herb gardens and terraces with views of the valley below.

The main building houses the restaurant on the ground floor and three rooms upstairs. Additionally, there are three guesthouses on the property that have been renovated from traditional village houses.

All the interior design has been carefully selected, right down to the smallest details. Each room is adorned with vintage furnishings, traditional carpets, and delicate lace doilies resting on the water glasses.

The restaurant in this little village is quite unique. It offers a fine-dining experience with a tasting menu that reflects the creativity of the chef and the local ingredients available in the region.

Uğurtaş expresses that Çiy represents his deep connection to nature. He values the resilience of a cauliflower that thrives in the winter cold, rather than a bland pepper grown through unnatural methods. He communicates to his suppliers that he only purchases crops that are grown beautifully, without toxins, and with a high yield.

Instead of pressuring farmers to grow unfamiliar ingredients, Uğurtaş simply asks for their best and most natural products. He believes in giving them the freedom to focus on what they know and do best, allowing him to do the same. Uğurtaş finds joy in working with the diverse and fertile region, utilizing existing products in his creations.

Sibel Uysal, who is 20 years old, takes a selfie with her friends in Ankara province before they board the Eastern Express heading from Ankara to Kars, Turkey on April 9, 2018. The photo was taken by REUTERS/Umit Bektas. You can search for "BEKTAS EXPRESS" for more details on this story and "WIDER IMAGE" for other stories.

Umit Bektas/Reuters

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The chef's dishes on the plate are all about embracing simplicity. They allow nature's flavors to shine through fully. However, they are also elevated through techniques and experimentation. This takes the dishes from just satisfying to truly unforgettable.

"I never thought of Çiy as just another restaurant in the city. That's why I always feel like we are in the perfect location," she explains. "Our greatest advantage is the easy access we have to fresh ingredients and local producers. And because our main focus is on delivering delicious flavors, this is what truly sets our restaurant apart."

A menu highlight is the savory eclair.

Courtesy Çiy Restaurant & Konukevi

Uğurtaş’s savory éclair features powdered shrimp shell in the pastry, filled with a shrimp cream and served with a cup of peach kombucha. Her homemade pastas, learned from a renowned Italian chef in Istanbul, are topped with veal ragout or made with ancient grains like Kızılca wheat. They are served with thinly sliced calamari in a sauce of egg yolk, Bergama Tulum cheese, olive oil, and fermented mussel juice.

The dishes are complemented with wines from Turkey’s boutique vineyards, carefully selected from a curated list.

At Çiy, the casual lunch service offers different specialties depending on the day of the week. Sundays are all about brunches featuring croquembouche towers filled with cream and drizzled with caramel. On Saturdays, the spotlight is on the Çiy burger, complete with homemade pickles, ketchup, peach mustard, and a buttery bun. And on Wednesdays, Uğurtaş and her team showcase their love for making sourdough bread by preparing a signature sourdough pizza.

Food for the soul

Chef Damla Uğurtaş undertook a challenging renovation process to bring her restaurant to life.

Uğurtaş, from Çiy Restaurant & Konukevi, describes her food as "healing Mediterranean cuisine." She is part of a growing food trend in Turkey that aims to satisfy both the taste buds and the spirit.

Chefs are now opting to open restaurants in remote locations, closer to nature and the rich culture and ingredients of different regions in the country. Some notable examples include Osman Sezener and his restaurant Od Urla, Ozan Kumbasar’s Vino Locale in Urla, Tuncay Gülcü’s Chayote, and Serra Beklen’s Capra Çukurbağ in Kaş.

According to Adnan Kaya, a columnist for Hürriyet newspaper focusing on Aegean culture, Damla Uğurtaş is pioneering fusion cuisine in a lesser-known location. This emerging trend is shaping the new philosophy in Turkish gastronomy, with Çiy expected to be among the frontrunners.

"We know that our planet is struggling to keep up with our needs, but chef Uğurtaş brings a solution with her nourishing cuisine," Kaya mentions. She carefully crafts her dishes using local, seasonal ingredients, never rushing the process. Each member of her team plays a vital role, adding their own unique touch.

As they work and learn together, they become a close-knit family, growing and improving each day. Their bond shines through in the delicious flavors they create. It would be wonderful if all restaurants could follow this example.

The restaurant has views over the countryside to the Aegean sea.

At Çiy Restaurant & Konukevi, guests can enjoy a peaceful and serene atmosphere, a complete contrast to the busy and chaotic environment of Istanbul, which has traditionally been known as the culinary capital of Turkey.

The restaurant is peacefully nestled in its village, with guests chatting softly on the terrace and the expansive valley surrounding it in tranquility. At the bar, guests enjoy a refreshing signature cocktail while also using the restaurant's own natural mosquito repellent made from local herbs.

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Turkey's food scene is undergoing a small but significant revolution, bringing it closer to nature and in harmony with it. It's a scene that captivates and convinces you of the positive changes happening.

According to Uğurtaş, customers embarking on this journey will find that their efforts are well worth it.

Hosting guests in a remote village goes beyond just providing food, according to Uğurtaş.

At Çiy, a holistic way of living is embraced. Guests are welcomed with a philosophy that incorporates the village, the region, the people we collaborate with, and our own personal values.

I love how every little detail in my restaurant reflects my philosophy - from the fabric and colors, to the plates and food, the staff and music, right down to the glasses and wine list.

Feride Yalav-Heckeroth is a freelance writer who divides her time between Istanbul and Lake Constance. She is the author of The 500 Hidden Secrets of Istanbul guidebook, and her work has been featured in various publications such as Kinfolk, Brownbook, The Travel Almanac, Wallpaper*, Travel + Leisure, and Conde Nast Traveler.

Editor's P/S:

This article showcases the innovative and nature-inspired cuisine of Çiy Restaurant in the remote village of Caferli, Turkey. Chef Damla Uğurtaş draws inspiration from the surrounding natural environment to create a unique dining experience that emphasizes the flavors and ingredients of the region. Through her dishes, Uğurtaş aims to promote a connection to nature and a sense of well-being, positioning Çiy as a destination for culinary exploration and rejuvenation.

Furthermore, the article highlights the growing trend in Turkey towards food that nourishes both the body and the soul. Chefs are seeking out remote locations closer to nature, allowing them to source fresh and local ingredients that reflect the rich culinary traditions of different regions. This emerging movement is shaping a new philosophy in Turkish gastronomy, with Çiy Restaurant & Konukevi emerging as a frontrunner in this culinary revolution. immerse oneself in the beauty and flavors of the region.