The sky is filled with an orange glow as the sun slowly rises over the expansive desert landscape in the early morning.
Every so often, herders come into sight, leading hundreds of sheep and goats as they head towards the nearby watering hole.
The only audible sounds are the wind, the calls of native animals, and the occasional rumble of 4x4 vehicles bringing in new arrivals.
Immerse yourself in the isolated wilderness experience at Three Camel Lodge, an eco-resort located in Khan konghor in Mongolia's Gobi desert - one of the most remote places on Earth. The lodge offers visitors a chance to get a firsthand look at Mongolia's traditional nomadic lifestyle, where a community of people rely on domesticated livestock to survive on the Central Asia plateau, far away from civilization.
Nomadic cultures may be rare, but they remain a vital part of life in Mongolia, where a quarter of the population, totaling over 3 million people, still live as nomads. The lodge features 24 gers, traditional round dwellings made of wood, felt, and rope, designed to be portable, easily constructed, and durable enough to endure the harsh desert winds.
The interior is modest, with wooden furniture and decorative pieces, yet each one is equipped with luxuries uncommon in a nomadic setting, such as a private bathroom with running water and solar-powered electricity. The Three Camel Lodge also offers amenities like an on-site restaurant, a well-stocked bar with a wide selection of whiskey, and even a spa, a surprising extravagance for this region.
How the Three Camel Lodge was born
The Three Camel Lodge was the brainchild of 68-year-old Mongolian-American businessman Jalsa Urubshurow.
During his childhood in the United States in the 1960s, he could only imagine the breathtaking vistas of Mongolia. However, thanks to his father's vibrant stories, the culture of the country always held a special place in his heart.
The Three Camel Lodge was founded by Mongolian-American businessman Jalsa Urubshurow.
Courtesy Three Camel Lodge
"Mongolians have developed an advanced genetic tracing system that allows for pinpointing the geographical region, within a few hundred miles, where your tribe and ancestors originated," says Jalsa, whose father was born in Kalmykia, now a southern region of Russia.
"He often shared this with me while we were living in the middle of New Jersey."
In the early 1990s, when Mongolia allowed international tourists to enter, Jalsa was able to visit for the first time.
"I've attended numerous Mongolian weddings in New Jersey, but that was the extent of my experience. The visit brought to mind a multitude of different images," he says.
"I had the opportunity to visit the countryside and meet a herder while staying in some ger camps. It was truly an incredible experience."
"Discover the authentic dishes that every tourist in Mongolia should try, as recommended by the locals."
Afterwards, the prime minister of Mongolia assigned Jalsa to attract more tourists from the West. He started Nomadic Expeditions in 1992, offering tours in Mongolia and beyond. "It was a struggle to get people to sign up," he reminisces.
In 2002, Jalsa decided to build something more permanent in the Gobi, and the Three Camel Lodge was born.
A land of dinosaurs and flaming cliffs
The Gobi is renowned as the homeland of the dinosaurs, and it holds significant cultural importance in Mongolia. A mere half-hour drive from the Three Camel Lodge will take you to one of the world's most vital dinosaur fossil sites.
A century ago, explorers at Bayanzag made the first scientifically recognized discovery of dinosaur eggs. In the 1920s, paleontologist Roy Andrews and his team from the American Museum of Natural History found the nests and named the site "The Flaming Cliffs" due to the red sandstones that seem to come to life at sunset, turning the entire area into a fiery red color. Today, dinosaur fossils are still being uncovered at this site.
"This place exudes a sense of mystery, with its secretive and secluded atmosphere. It holds a special significance for me," said Buyandelger Ganbaatar, who is the in-country director and lead tour guide for Nomadic Expeditions, as told to CNN Travel.
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The Flaming Cliffs, formerly sand dunes 70 million years ago, was once an ancient settlement. Andrews expedition aimed to provide evidence that humankind originated in Central Asia. Another nearby attraction is Moltsog Els, a region in the Mongolian Gobi known for its unique sand dunes, just a 15-minute drive from the lodge.
Guests have the option to wander the dunes on foot or rent a camel from a nearby herding family. Aside from the dunes and red stone cliffs, the Gobi is known for its lush greenery. Just an hour's drive from the lodge, Yol Valley is a protected area for birdlife, particularly the Yol, or bearded vulture.
Guests can also visit the Gobi Gurvan Saikhan National Park, a protected area that is teeming with biodiversity, including white gazelles, leopards, and golden eagles. Visitors can explore the valley on foot or by horseback, and in the summer, a beautiful brook flows through the deep and narrow gorge.
The lodge also offers a range of other experiences, such as nomadic archery sessions, stargazing, cycling, and cooking classes.
Sustainability pioneer
Preservation has always been crucial in this pristine natural environment. Given the remote location, Jalsa and his team prioritized establishing the necessary infrastructure.
The Three Camel Lodge is a leader in sustainable tourism, with a focus on sustainable stewardship, preservation, and community empowerment. To achieve this, the lodge has replaced single-use plastic bottles with metal reusable tumblers, implemented a waste management system that includes composting, and relies on solar panels for lighting. Additionally, the lodge sources construction materials, furniture, and décor from within a 50-mile radius to minimize environmental impact.
Jalsa emphasizes the importance of a commitment to culture through architecture, surroundings, and design to promote authenticity. Ongoing sustainable tourism is also centered on hiring locally, and for Jalsa, this means investing in local people. The Three Camel Lodge has nearly 30 full-time Mongolian staff who share the same sentiment, reflecting this commitment.
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"Its a wonderful thing if you can be protecting our planet, and sharing your culture with people," he says.
Supporting educational programs and collaborating with international paleontological organizations to protect dinosaur fossils are key components of the lodges' sustainability goals in the wider Gobi community. "Mongolia is one of the few remaining places where you can truly experience untouched wilderness and stunning landscapes," explains Jalsa.
Getting there
Getting to and from the Three Camel Lodge isnt for the travel-weary - did we mention its remote?
Jalsa tells CNN that the journey from Mongolia's capital, Ulaanbaatar, to the Gobi is a seven to eight-hour drive that most average tourists are not interested in. Flights to the Gobi are available but they often depart in the middle of the night and arrive at Dalanzadgad Airport at sunrise. From there, it's another hour-long car ride across the roadless desert before reaching the lodge, which appears almost like an oasis in the distance.
2023 is the perfect time to plan a trip to Mongolia. Exiting the Gobi can be quite challenging, as flights back to the capital are frequently canceled without much warning. In the winter, certain flights may not operate at all.
Jalsa currently states that the lodge is open for business from May to November and is hopeful for increased government support to enhance logistics and extend the annual tourism season, even if only by a small margin.
"I believe that in order to promote tourism, the government should consider subsidizing domestic air travel, especially for tourism purposes," Jalsa suggests.
"In essence, you're providing access to different parts of the country for your clients. This opportunity is truly remarkable, and we have been dedicated to promoting it for over 30 years."