Discover the Culinary Revolution of Bolivia: Latin America's Emerging Dining Hotspot

Bolivia may not be the first place that comes to mind for food lovers, but this big South American country is gaining recognition in the culinary world. The influence of ancient Inca and Aymara peoples can be seen in modern fusion dishes at top-notch restaurants.

In the capital city La Paz, three eateries — Gustu, Ancestral, and Phayawi — have made it to the list of top 100 restaurants in Latin America. And there are more exciting dining spots on the horizon. This food revolution is not limited to La Paz, as major cities like Sucre and the Uyuni Salt Flats are also part of Bolivia's culinary transformation.

The new Bolivian cuisine started around ten years ago, as shared by Marsia Taha, the head chef at Gustu. According to Taha, a new generation of chefs emerged with a strong belief in embracing their identity, culture, and food.

Taha and fellow chefs in La Paz came together around the idea of "zero-kilometer cuisine." This concept focuses on using locally sourced ingredients and maintaining direct relationships with the ranchers and farmers who supply them.

"Sebastián Giménez, chef and co-owner of Ancestral, believes in the quality of local products. By showcasing these ingredients, he aims to highlight the greatness of Bolivian cuisine in comparison to imported goods."

Grilled artichoke hearts with zucchini, Bolivian romesco sauce and Amazonian nuts at Ancestral.

Grilled artichoke hearts with zucchini, Bolivian romesco sauce and Amazonian nuts at Ancestral.

Courtesy Joe Yogerst

Revolutionizing Bolivian cuisine

It’s not surprising that Gustu has been counted among the continent’s elite dining destinations since first opening its doors in 2013.

Co-founder Claus Meyer, a Danish culinary legend, was instrumental in the New Nordic food movement at the Michelin three-star Noma restaurant in Copenhagen. Gustu is consistently recognized as one of the top restaurants in the continent.

Taha and Meyer merged Bolivia's traditional ingredients and food culture with the modern Nordic model, creating a gastronomic fusion that truly embodies its name. In the Quechua language of the Andes, "gustu" translates to "delicious."

Some of the special dishes at Gustu include raw Lake Titicaca trout with mango, llama with Amazonian vanilla and ajipa root, Amazon fish with goldenberries and fermented yuca (cassava), and a delicious lamb tamale.

Taha mentions that even after being in business for ten years, she and the other chefs at Gustu keep things exciting by exploring different regions of Bolivia to discover new ingredients and cooking methods. They focus on understanding how people prepare their meals and cultivate their produce. Additionally, the chefs are encouraged to introduce innovative ideas to the menu.

Ispi (small fried fish from Lake Titicaca) is served alongside corn kernels called mote, with chuño (freeze-dried potato) and llajua (Bolivian salsa) at Phayawi in La Paz.

Ispi (small fried fish from Lake Titicaca) is served alongside corn kernels called mote, with chuño (freeze-dried potato) and llajua (Bolivian salsa) at Phayawi in La Paz.

Courtesy Phayawi

Variations on the theme

Located in the trendy Achumani neighborhood on the south side of La Paz, Ancestral is situated in a cozy basement with floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook a sunken garden. The restaurant offers a unique culinary experience with a blend of new Bolivian cuisine infused with Basque and Nordic influences. The focal point of the menu is the open fire or parrilla-style cooking centered around a wood-stoked grill and oven.

Chef Sebastián Giménez explains, “Our inspiration comes from the diverse regions of Bolivia, from the jungle to the altiplano. We are also influenced by local ingredients and cooking techniques. At Ancestral, we exclusively use Bolivian products and pair our dishes with Bolivian wines to showcase the rich flavors of our country.”

Don't expect traditional Andean or Amazon dishes at Ancestral. They offer a delicious fusion of old and new, including dishes like chuletón ribeye steak, trout ceviche with grilled corn and sweet potato, and porchetta pork roast with Bolivian tubers and red aji sauce.

On the other hand, Manq’a takes a different approach. Instead of fine dining, the atmosphere is laid-back and casual. You can find tables spread across three floors of an old wooden townhouse in the boho Sopocachi neighborhood of central La Paz.

Lunchtime at this place is always bustling with a diverse crowd of locals, politicians, students, and even tourists. They all come together to enjoy a variety of delicious dishes like peanut soup, cheesy gratin, native potatoes with humacha sauce, tender keperí beef from eastern Bolivia, and Amazonian surubi catfish served with quinoa, tucupi cassava, and edible flowers.

Ingredients are ready for preparation at Mercado Central in Sucre, Bolivia.

Ingredients are ready for preparation at Mercado Central in Sucre, Bolivia.

Courtesy Joe Yogerst

The chefs at these high-end restaurants have easy access to essential ingredients. A lot of the key components for their unique dishes come from the Andes valleys and foothills that stretch across Bolivia's western side from Lake Titicaca to Argentina.

Bolivia and its Andean neighbors cultivate over 4,000 different types of potatoes, with many varieties being exclusive to a single valley. These potatoes come in a range of shapes, sizes, colors, and flavors.

In addition to their love for potatoes, Bolivians also hold quinoa in high regard. The country is home to more than 3,100 varieties of quinoa. Despite common belief, quinoa is not a true grain but rather the seed of a flowering pseudocereal plant.

In the new visitor center in the silver mining town of San Cristóbal, there is an exhibit that highlights how Spanish conquistadors and padres once viewed quinoa as the "food of the devil." They even went as far as banning its consumption to control the local indigenous people.

Fast forward five centuries, NASA has recognized quinoa as "the perfect food to grow in indoor greenhouses" for long voyages in outer space. This is due to its ability to thrive in adverse conditions like the Andes, its versatility, and high protein content.

No longer vilified as Satan’s feast, it’s also an ideal ingredient for Bolivia’s new-wave cuisine.

Pork with Huacareta red chile at Phayawi.

Pork with Huacareta red chile at Phayawi.

Courtesy Phayawi

Zero-kilometer goes wider

Sucre, the nation’s judicial capital in south-central Bolivia, isn’t as cosmopolitan as La Paz when it comes to food. But it’s gradually catching up.

Located just across the street from the city’s Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe, Joy Ride Cafe started as a tourist restaurant but soon became a popular spot for locals looking for a cozy place to enjoy date nights, after-work gatherings, and satisfy their cravings for burgers, pasta, and other international dishes.

A short walk away is El Solar, a restaurant known for its fusion cuisine. Their seven-course degustation menu offers a variety of dishes, including seafood rice with a hint of Amazonian citrus juice, pork belly with pepper sauce, a creamy puree made from plantain and yuca, and beef loin served with charque (llama jerky). All of this can be enjoyed for just 80 bolivianos, which is approximately $12.

Located in southwest Bolivia about 300 miles (500 kilometers) south of La Paz, the otherworldly Salar de Uyuni is the world’s largest and most spectacular salt flat as well as Bolivia’s top tourist attraction. Once primarily a destination for backpackers, the area has seen an increase in more affluent travelers and social media influencers in recent years, leading to a transformation of the local dining scene.

Tika restaurant at the Jardines de Uyuni Hotel may appear ordinary from the outside, but don't let that fool you. The kitchen serves up Andean-inspired dishes that rival those found in Bolivia's big cities.

Lunch on the Uyuni Salt Flat catered by Tika restaurant.

Lunch on the Uyuni Salt Flat catered by Tika restaurant.

Chef Tania López refers to the menu at Tika as "zero-kilometer cuisine." Some of her standout dishes include sun-dried llama jerky with local white cheese and yellow chili pepper sauce, k’alaphurka corn soup, and lake trout filets with basil pesto and quinoa risotto.

López mentions that one of the dishes at Tika that closely resembles what the ancient Inca people may have eaten is the llama potojchi. She explains that the preparation of this succulent dish, similar to goulash, requires more time than beef. The dish is still made in the traditional way from many centuries ago, heated on lava rocks.

On the other hand, Tika offers house-made desserts that the Incas never had the chance to taste but would probably love. One of the highlights is the quinoa and purple corn ice creams.

Tika also offers upscale takeaway options for diners to enjoy on a remote picnic. You can either pick up the meals yourself or opt for a unique experience with Hidalgo Tours. They will take you on a 4x4 adventure and set up a table, chairs, and a bar in a secluded spot right in the middle of the salt flat.

Lunch from Tika includes stapes such as potatoes and quinoa.

Lunch from Tika includes stapes such as potatoes and quinoa.

Courtesy Joe Yogerst

But that doesn't mean that every corner of Bolivia has embraced the food revolution.

Just an hour boat ride away from the mainland is the Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun) in the middle of Lake Titicaca. This island is known as the legendary birthplace of the Inca civilization and remains closely connected to the Andean heritage.

The Tacana restaurant on the island offers a traditional pachamanca lunch on its open-air terrace with a view of the water. The meal includes llama, lake fish, potatoes, corn, and other locally sourced dishes. This menu is similar to what the Inca rulers would have eaten during their pilgrimages to the island over 500 years ago.

Editor's P/S:

Bolivia's culinary revolution is a testament to the country's rich cultural heritage and the creativity of its chefs. By embracing local ingredients and traditions, restaurants like Gustu, Ancestral, and Manq'a are creating a new Bolivian cuisine that is both innovative and authentic. This food revolution is not limited to La Paz, as cities like Sucre and the Uyuni Salt Flats are also experiencing a surge in culinary creativity.

One of the most exciting aspects of Bolivia's new cuisine is its focus on sustainability. Chefs are working closely with local farmers and ranchers to source ingredients that are not only fresh and flavorful but also environmentally friendly. This "zero-kilometer cuisine" movement is helping to preserve Bolivia's traditional food culture while also promoting sustainable farming practices.