Hydra may appear similar to its neighboring islands at first glance. With its characteristic white-washed streets, fragrant air scented with jasmine, and awe-inspiring views of the glistening blue waters, it embodies the essence of the Aegean Sea.
However, what truly distinguishes Hydra is its unique mode of transportation. Unlike the rest, the locals have intentionally chosen to forgo the chaotic cacophony of honking horns and instead embraced the rhythmic melody of horse hooves.
In this place, vehicles are not only nonexistent but deliberately restricted. Local laws have established a prohibition on motorized transportation, with the exception of fire trucks, refuse trucks, and ambulances.
The approximately 2,500 residents of the Greek islands rely on mules, donkeys, and small horses to navigate their surroundings.
Upon disembarking the ferry and entering Hydra Port, the very heart of the island, tourists are greeted by the sight of elegant small horses gracefully maneuvering through the charming cobblestone streets, providing them with a glimpse of the island's laid-back atmosphere. As you explore the picturesque pathways of Hydra, it is not uncommon to observe the locals engrossed in their daily routines, accompanied by their faithful four-legged friends.
From the peaceful village of Kaminia, which showcases charming stone houses, to the idyllic Mandraki on the western shores of the island, known for its crystal-clear waters and relaxed atmosphere, the essence of their presence is felt throughout Greece.
Harriet Jarman, owner of Harriets Hydra Horses, describes Hydra as a time capsule, where horse and mule transportation creates a tranquil atmosphere void of cars and hustle-bustle.
No cars? No problem
"Hydra is an island that really takes you back in time," says local resident Harriet Jarman.
Courtesy Harriet Jarman
Jarmans association with Hydra commenced two decades ago when her mother took her to the island for a vacation, prompting a pivotal choice to establish Hydra as their permanent residence.
Subsequently, ten years later, amidst Greece's economic downturn, Jarman encountered coercion to part ways with her beloved horse, Chloe.
Determined to keep her cherished companion, she made the bold decision to set up her own horse trekking enterprise. This not only provided financial support for Chloe, but also offered her the opportunity to share her passion for the picturesque landscapes of the islands.
"I grew tired of being advised to sell Chloe due to the expenses associated with owning a horse," she reflects. "Then it struck me – I'll demonstrate to others the very reasons that persuade me to remain on this island."
The company currently boasts a team of 12 horses, accompanied by knowledgeable equestrians, providing guided tours along the island's trails. These captivating expeditions encompass numerous charming monasteries and scenic beaches found in Hydra. Additionally, riders have the unique opportunity to enjoy a revitalizing swim alongside their equine companions.
A heritage carved in hoofprints
Donkeys are a common form of transport on Hydra.
Anton Petrus/Moment RF/Getty Images
Embracing traditional horse-drawn transportation, called "cáiques," reflects the island's deep respect for its rich heritage and dedication to sustainable living.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Hydra thrived as a vibrant maritime center. However, with the advent of motorized transport in the 20th century, which became prevalent in the rest of Greece, the island's narrow and steep streets, along with its rocky terrain, rendered cars impractical for navigation.
And so residents clung to equine transportation, which could traverse the rugged landscape more efficiently.
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Over time, the Hydras' dependency on hooves became deeply rooted in their culture and way of life. Donkeys and mules have become inseparable from the identity of the islands, serving as means of transportation for goods, construction materials, and even individuals - a tradition that continues unabated to this very day.
"Everyone around here lives off their backs," Jarman says. "They are our cars and hands, carrying everything from building materials and furniture to luggage and shopping."
An artistic paradise
Jewelry designer and Hydra native, Elena Votsi, draws inspiration from the area's natural beauty.
Nikolaos-Panagiotis Kiafas
The serene ambiance of the island, devoid of cars, has attracted a wide range of creatives from various parts of the world. Among them is the celebrated Italian actress Sophia Loren, who developed a fondness for Hydra during the production of "Boy on a Dolphin" in 1957.
Jewelry designer and native of Hydra, Elena Votsi, describes the island as a source of inspiration due to its captivating colors, magical light, and unparalleled ambiance. Votsi, renowned for her ability to seamlessly meld traditional artistry with contemporary design, draws creative influence from her Greek roots as well as the beauty found in the natural world and geometric forms.
Votsi, who was born in Athens, reveals that she would spend her summers and holidays on Hydra, where she would visit her father. According to her, the lack of automobiles in the area contributes to its enchanting atmosphere for work and serves as a constant source of inspiration for her designs throughout her career.
"I've found inspiration in the sun, the rocks, and the mesmerizing patterns created by the waves. The innate beauty and distinctive qualities of this island have played a pivotal role in shaping my creative journey," Votsi expressed.
In 2003, she received an invitation to participate in a competition organized by the International Olympic Committee, tasking her with redesigning the medal for the Summer Olympic Games.
Upon receiving the invitation, Votsi traveled to her home in Hydra, where the enchanting island served as a source of inspiration. This visit sparked a creative journey that ultimately led to Votsi emerging as the winner of the competition, cementing her name in the history of the world's most renowned sporting events.
Multiple renowned artists, including painters Brice Marden, Alexis Veroucas, Panagiotis Tetsis, Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas, and John Craxton, as well as author Henry Miller, have been either visitors or residents of Hydra. The allure of the island's magnetic charm has captivated their creative spirits, allowing them to find inspiration amidst its serene landscapes.
During the 1960s, Canadian singer-songwriter Leonard Cohen stumbled upon Hydra and decided to call it his home for several years. His experience on the island left a lasting impression, evident in his iconic song "Bird on the Wire," which he partially composed during his time there.
"Hydra is a paradise. Its a magical place to work and a blessing that I can come here as an artist, as so many others have done before me and will continue to do," Votsi said.