China Welcomes Foreign Climbers Back to Mount Everest

For the first time since the pandemic, China is now permitting foreign climbers to climb Mount Everest from Tibet.

Adrian Ballinger, a seasoned climber who has conquered Everest eight times, favors the Tibet route over the Nepal route. This year, he will be guiding a group of climbers through his company, Alpenglow Expeditions.

Instead of a tourism official or council in Beijing, the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) is responsible for distributing all passes to use the Chinese route up the mountain.

Furthermore, the Chinese government has not made any official announcements to inform the public about the distribution of passes.

According to Ballinger, the Tibet side of Mount Everest is likely to be open for non-Chinese climbers when the CTMA releases a price list for the season. This list covers expenses such as yaks for carrying equipment, local guides, translators, and transportation from Lhasa to Everest Base Camp.

This photograph taken on May 31, 2021 shows mountaineers looking back at Camp 4 during their ascend to the summit of Mount Everest (8,848.86-metre), in Nepal. (Photo by Lakpa SHERPA / AFP) (Photo by LAKPA SHERPA/AFP via Getty Images)

On May 31, 2021, a group of mountaineers can be seen in a photograph looking back at Camp 4 as they make their way towards the summit of Mount Everest in Nepal. The photo was taken by Lakpa Sherpa and is credited to AFP/Getty Images.

Related article

Everest climbers will have to take their poop away with them, as Nepal tries to address growing waste problem

Foreigners visiting China on a tourist visa need to apply for a separate visa specifically for Tibet, a semi-autonomous region. The China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) can help with this process, especially for climbers.

Each year, a maximum of 300 permits are issued to non-Chinese climbers who wish to explore the mountains of Tibet.

The window to climb Everest is quite short, typically from late April to mid-May. Ballinger's team will be in China by April 25, having done some pre-acclimatization at home to be efficient with their time.

Competition at the top of the world

While Nepal is known for its popular and heavily-photographed route to the summit of Everest, the higher number of tourists also leads to increased litter, erosion, and human waste.

But it wasn't like this in the past.

Climbing from the Chinese side was once more popular than climbing from the Nepali side. From 2000 to 2007, the Chinese side was the preferred choice, believed to be safer by many climbers. Ballinger explains this shift in popularity.

So, what led to this change?

In 2008, the Summer Olympics were held in Beijing, China. The Olympic Flame made a special stop at Mount Everest before reaching the capital, even though there were already groups of tourists gearing up to conquer the world's highest peak.

According to Ballinger, "Eight days before our arrival at the mountain in 2008, they closed it down for the entire season, causing many people to lose money. As a result, the business shifted to the Nepali side that year."

Now, with foreign climbers able to access Everest via the northern route through Tibet for the first time since 2020, that trend may slowly begin to reverse.

Editor's P/S:

The reopening of the Tibetan route to Mount Everest is an exciting development for climbers and adventure enthusiasts. The Tibet route offers a different experience than the more popular Nepal route, with fewer crowds and a more pristine environment. However, it is important to note that the Chinese government has not yet released any official announcements regarding the distribution of passes, and the cost of climbing from the Tibet side may be higher than from the Nepal side.

The article also highlights the issue of waste and human waste on Mount Everest. The increase in tourism has led to a corresponding increase in litter, erosion, and human waste, which is a growing problem. Nepal is trying to address this issue by requiring climbers to take their poop away with them, but it is a complex issue that will require cooperation from all climbers and stakeholders.