Celebrating Filipino American Resurgence: Revitalizing the Barong Tradition

This article is part of CNN's Styles series called "Hyphenated," which delves into the complex issue of identity among minorities in the United States.

As a first-generation child of Filipino American immigrants, I grew up hearing nostalgic stories from my parents about their homeland. These stories were filled with vivid details from their childhoods spent in a country that felt as unfamiliar to me as the mythical lands found in fairytales. The way they spoke about their experiences conveyed both a longing to grasp opportunities in the West and a desire for a life where they didn't feel like outsiders – a life where conforming to American culture wasn't an everyday burden.

Numerous narratives revolved around my paternal great uncle, Ramon Magsaysay, who served as the President of the Philippines. He played a pivotal role in establishing the barong Tagalog as the official formal attire of the country. The barong Tagalog, a translucent button-down shirt adorned with intricate hand-stitched embroidery, has gained significant popularity among Filipinos worldwide, serving as a symbol of national identity and fashion. It is commonly referred to as "dress of the Philippines" and often abbreviated as barong.

A close-up shot of the barong highlights the shirt's intricate embroidery and fabrication.

Wardrobe stylist and fashion editor Rap Sarmiento describes the barong as naturally glamorous, citing its sheer fabric and intricate embroidery. The younger generation is enthusiastically embracing this traditional attire.

The barong is believed to have originated before Spanish colonization in the 15th century in the Philippines. Serving both as a status symbol and a regular piece of clothing, the barong's lightweight fabric is interpreted as a practical choice to handle the country's intense heat and humidity. Alternatively, it may have been imposed by Spanish colonizers to prevent Filipino natives from hiding stolen items or weapons under their clothes.

By recreating old photographs, these second-generation immigrants step into their parents' shoes.

"The barong was embraced by the Spanish in all their colonies, while other nations developed their own variations," explained Caroline Mangosing, the founder and designer of Vinta Gallery, a Canadian brand specializing in Filipino apparel. "For instance, Cuba boasts the guayabera with practical pockets, and the Dominican Republic features a pleated rendition."

President Magsaysay contributed to the barong's popularity during his 1953 inauguration, as he donned the garment to showcase his solidarity with the common people. This event ignited widespread acceptance of the barong as the Philippines' formal alternative to suits or tuxedos, serving as a striking contrast to Westernized attire on the global stage.

The photograph captured an event in 1956 held in Manila, where Philippine President Ramon Magsaysay, accompanied by his wife Luz Magsaysay, was joined by United States Vice President Richard Nixon and his wife Pat Nixon, to commemorate the July 4th celebrations. Notably, both Magsaysay and Nixon were seen wearing traditional Filipino barongs.

The inauguration symbolized President Magsaysay's commitment to Philippine independence and resilience following the end of nearly 50 years of US colonization. In line with his Filipino First Policy to strengthen the economy, the President and his administration supported garment manufacturing and textile mills that utilized native materials such as piña (pineapple fiber), abaca (hemp), and jusi (a combination of piña and hemp). This investment not only boosted local industry but also sparked widespread interest among Filipinos in wearing garments made from native fibers, according to Ramon Magsaysay Jr., former Senator of the Philippines and my uncle.

"He was dedicated to the advancement of Filipino nationalism for our nation and its citizens," stated Magsaysay Jr. "During his inauguration, he proudly displayed his attire and footwear made in the Philippines to a large audience."

The transformation of the barong after Magsaysay's presidency is equally fascinating, with its rich and intricate history. The garment's popularity gradually declined among numerous Filipinos during President Ferdinand Marcos' reign."

"There was a lingering political hangover as people distanced themselves from Marcos and his wife Imelda, who had a penchant for Filipiniana attire. As a result, the popularity of such traditional women's dresses quickly waned after their exile from the country. It seemed that wearing barongs also lost its appeal among the masses for some time, leading to a halt in its evolution, with only mass-produced versions in flamboyant colors remaining."

"Lea Salonga makes groundbreaking strides in the world of Broadway musicals through her participation in Here Lies Love."

As Filipinos continue to make their mark in the worlds of fashion, music, and popular culture, the barong has experienced a resurgence that is both innovative and inspiring. Vinta Gallery offers a range of handmade and intricately embroidered barongs, created in a Philippine atelier. These barongs are available in ready-to-wear styles priced between $300 and $600, while custom designs can exceed $1000. The brand's most sought-after pieces are those adorned with anting-anting or other symbolic charms inspired by Philippine folk magic, according to Mangosing in an interview with CNN.

Jian DeLeon.

Jian DeLeon, the menswear and editorial director at Nordstrom, teamed up with Bode, a menswear brand, to create a unique shirt. The shirt draws inspiration from the traditional barong, but is crafted from a modern cotton linen blend fabric.

De Leon mentioned drawing inspiration from French designer Pierre Cardin's revolutionary redesign of the shirt silhouette during the 1970s. Cardin introduced elements such as a camp collar, French cuffs, and incorporated a more global approach to embroidery. De Leon believes that engaging in projects of this nature can effectively integrate traditionally Filipino fashion items into the global fashion scene.

During his attendance at a Nike "Filipino Forces" dinner held in Los Angeles last autumn, Sarmiento decided to showcase his father's barong by pairing it with a Rhude t-shirt, a black tennis skirt, and black Margiela Tabi boots. The stylist considered this ensemble as a way of modernizing the traditional garment.

At the same event, designer and influencer Aleali May wore a barong with distressed jeans, hoop earrings and limited-edition Nike Air Force One sneakers.

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Rap Sarmiento.

Ja Tecson

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Aleali May.

Ja Tecson

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wore a barong that he had originally commissioned for his cousin's wedding at a fashion industry event this year. Many attendees mistook it for a jacket, according to Romero. He stylishly combined the barong with a white long-sleeved Uniqlo shirt, black pants, and handmade house shoes from his province in Tarlac.

"When I first entered the music industry, it was rare to see another Filipino at events. However, now it has become common to encounter three or four of us, so it is no longer surprising to witness someone wearing a barong," stated Marisa Pizarro, a music executive. "The barong offers a sophisticated appearance without the need for a suit. Suits are rarely seen (in creative industries) these days."

Many Filipino-American celebrities have recently chosen to wear a barong at high-profile events and red carpets. Last year, Jo Koy wore a custom-made denim barong created by Levis, which combined traditional fabric with the style of a trucker jacket. During the premiere of the Broadway musical "Here Lies Love," photographer Martin Romero observed, "Many of the men, including cast members and guests, sported traditional and modern barongs." Additionally, the barong has gained popularity among Generation Z on social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok. Young people can be seen wearing brands such as Vinta Gallery and The Mestizo in their posts and feeds.

Centuries-old Chinese fashion is experiencing a resurgence as NBA players Klay Thompson and Kevon Looney, who are not Filipinos, proudly donned barongs during their Asia tour. Serving as ambassadors for the athletic brand Anta, Thompson expressed his admiration for the garment, stating, "It looks absolutely stunning and feels exceptionally comfortable." This gesture was widely celebrated as a "Pinoy Pride moment" by Esquire Philippines magazine.

Entrepreneur Rembrandt Flores expressed, "The fusion of social media and the appreciation for Filipino culture has sparked a desire to don traditional attire and showcase our heritage. The younger generation is increasingly captivated, demonstrating their pride and unleashing artistic flair through their choice to don the barong."