"You have pretty hair," my colleague said. "Is it your natural color?"
"Iâ¦. dont know?" I responded.
That wasnt supposed to be a funny answer. It was the truth.
Three years ago, I went through treatment for cancer. The disease took many things from meone breast, several lymph nodes and my hair.
Healing often occurs in fragments, and the concept of "better" can vary depending on the individual. However, one of the most noticeable signs of a person's recovery is the regrowth of their hair.
Each morning, I eagerly inspected my scalp, anticipating the emergence of my dormant hairs as if they were about to bloom from the ground. Eventually, they made their appearance, transforming the once auburn color I had known my entire life into a rich chestnut brown shade. Previously straight as a stick, my hair now possessed a gentle wave and gracefully curled at the ends.
Color analyst Vivian Seo explains the color categories she uses during consultations.
Noemi Cassanelli/CNN
For individuals who have undergone chemotherapy, this is a familiar occurrence. While chemo effectively eradicates cancer cells, it also destroys numerous other cells, including hair follicles. Along with the hair on my scalp, I experienced the loss of my eyebrows, body hair, and certain eyelashes.
Chemo can have an impact on the structure of follicles, leading to a phenomenon commonly referred to as "chemo curls" among patients who notice their hair becoming curly after treatment. The effects of treatment vary from person to person, with some initially experiencing a change in hair color or curliness, only to eventually see their hair return to its previous texture and shade. However, in my particular case, this doesn't seem to be the outcome.
At times, I find myself gazing into the mirror, unsure of the person staring back at me, or questioning the peculiar lighting in the bathroom. I pluck strands of hair from my brush and wonder if a friend borrowed it without informing me.
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My body after cancer serves as a reminiscent of my teenage years after puberty, where my previous clothing choices became inadequate. The once reliable black cardigans and pink lipstick now feel out of place.
Getting an expert opinion
As I struggled to figure out what to wear, someone suggested trying a "personal color analysis" session.
Already a major phenomenon in South Korea, the practice of analyzing individuals' natural color tones has experienced a remarkable surge in popularity over the past year, largely attributed to TikTok. In a typical session, a skilled stylist would drape different colored fabrics in front of your face to determine which shades complement your complexion. The analysis would typically commence with assortments of attire classified as "warm" or "cool" tones, before zooming in on specific singular colors to achieve utmost precision.
The author pictured during an analysis session at Hong Kong-based color consultancy Find Your Colour.
Noemi Cassanelli/CNN
Although currently trendy, this practice has a long-standing history. Ruth Merrion, like numerous women in the 1980s, was first acquainted with personal color theory through Carole Jackson's widely popular book "Color Me Beautiful." Jackson divided women into four categories based on the seasons, forming a basic guideline to determine which colors would best enhance their clothing and makeup selections.
Merrion found the book unsatisfactory.
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Later, she wrote her masters thesis on personal color analysis at Australias Curtin University.
"I realized a valuable lesson that selecting apparel isn't solely about aesthetics," she expressed during a Zoom discussion. "It revolves around effective communication."
According to Merrion's explanation, the clothing colors we choose serve a purpose beyond enhancing our appearance. They swiftly communicate our identity to the world.
The impact of colors on our emotions and state of mind has been harnessed in various ways, spanning from the soothing pastel shades employed in prisons to promote tranquility among inmates, to the use of earth-toned packaging for organic products to enhance their perceived natural qualities.
Colored drapes are used to decipher the most complementary shades.
Noemi Cassanelli/CNN
Vivian Seo, originally from South Korea, is a trained color analyst who established her company, Find Your Colour, in Hong Kong, where we both currently reside. During my consultation with her, I anticipated receiving some general recommendations on whether I should gravitate towards neutrals or pastels. However, I was pleasantly surprised to partake in a transformative experience that encompassed both a makeover and a therapeutic session, which were both much-needed.
Seo's approach begins with the concept of the four seasons, but she then further dissects each season into four additional sub-categories: clear, soft, deep, and light. Consequently, each of these 16 categories possesses a carefully curated range of colors tailored to suit the unique preferences of individuals.
By that methodology, for example, a "soft winter" person should wear gray tones, while a "light summer" one will look good in bright pinks and purples.
Finding my color â and my voice
During my personal color analysis session, Seo prioritized catering to my individual preferences and needs.
Prior to unveiling the assortment of colored drape cloths, Seo inquired about my desired perception of self and personal style. I expressed my aspirations of appearing professional and sought assistance in discovering essential office wardrobe staples. I jotted down keywords like "classic," "elegant," and "healthy" to guide the session.
This is exactly the essence of what Merrion would express - the success of these color analysis sessions relies on more than just making me feel attractive again. It's about conveying to everyone that I am now healthy.
Moreover, it's not solely focused on hair. Seo meticulously documented my eye color, skin tone, facial structure, and other factors to create her comprehensive analysis.
Her diagnosis: Im a "clear spring," which means I look best in bright colors.
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Giving up black, the go-to color for every New Yorker, was unimaginable for me. After spending my professional career in the city and accumulating a significant amount of black clothing in my wardrobe, it seemed like a daunting task. However, a moment of truth came when I caught a glimpse of myself in the mirror wearing a turquoise or bright green outfit instead of a black one.
During my childhood, I had always avoided the color orange due to its clashing effect with my reddish hair. However, the unexpected delight I felt when I tried on an orange-red lipstick for the first time was a gentle reminder that one's preferences can evolve over time. It made me realize that just because we are accustomed to something doesn't mean it will hold true forever.
Knowing that it can be challenging to break people out of their daily habits, Seo swiftly pointed out that she was merely providing guidance. She further emphasized that there is no color that is "prohibited" per se. I didn't have to abandon my beloved yellow, but she proposed experimenting with a zestier hue rather than a creamy one.
The author pictured with different combinations of colored drapes during her consultation.
Noemi Cassanelli/CNN
I don't need to get rid of all my black clothes right away. (Considering I can't afford to buy a completely new wardrobe anyway.) Seo recommended adding black accessories and mentioned that black pants and skirts are also acceptable. Essentially, if it's not worn near my face, it's allowed.
Following the session, Seo gave me a pre-printed card displaying my clear spring colors. I can carry it in my wallet and use it as a shopping reference.
Later, she sent me a comprehensive PDF outlining various recommendations for clothing choices beyond just colors. Seo's suggestions encompassed patterns (preferably small ones), jewelry (vibrant gemstones), and earring designs (swirls accentuating geometric lines). Additionally, she provided recommended styles for jackets and blouses, accompanied by visuals featuring models and celebrities whose outfits served as exemplary examples.
A couple of weeks later, I ecstatically purchased a lemon-yellow dress that instantly brought a smile to my face upon seeing my reflection in the dressing room mirror.
Even though I am no longer unwell, the person I am now is forever altered following my cancer diagnosis. I am currently taking medication that I anticipate will be a lifelong commitment. My breasts no longer match and I bear evident scars. To cope with the emotions stemming from my treatment, I am undergoing therapy. Even uttering the word "remission" feels like a superstitious act, done only in hushed tones. However, perhaps the next time I gaze upon my reflection, I will finally identify with the person staring back at me.