Breaking Fashion: Unveiling the Hottest Trends of New York's Spring-Summer 2024 Runways

New York Fashion Week has returned with a bang, despite the stormy weather. This year's event includes some exciting highlights, such as the highly anticipated comeback of Ralph Lauren and 3.1 Phillip Lim, along with the debut of up-and-coming designers like Grace Ling and Bishme Cromartie, winner of "Project Runway: All Stars". Additionally, there are brand anniversaries to celebrate, such as Gypsy Sport's 10th anniversary.

The exciting schedule for the week officially started off with a bang thanks to Peter Do's debut for Helmut Lang. As the Vietnamese-born designer, he took on the challenge of reinterpreting the minimalist brand from the 90s, which had been without a creative director for quite some time. Do successfully captured the essence of the original aesthetic while adding his own romantic sensibilities, including a collaboration with poet Ocean Vuong. One of the highlights of his collection was the mens and womens' suiting.

Coach kicked off Fashion Week with a pre-event celebration at the stunning marble interiors of the New York Public Library in Bryant Park, where celebrities such as Jennifer Lopez and Lil Nas X were in attendance.

Helmut Lang makes a comeback on the runway, with rising designer Peter Do leading the way.

During the show, an unexpected PETA protest took place on the runway, commemorating Stuart Vevers' 10th anniversary as creative director. To celebrate this milestone, the British designer presented a vibrant and sophisticated interpretation of what he referred to as "American essentials." Communicating via email with CNN, Vevers explained that his collection showcased relaxed suits, oversized leather jackets in black, brown, and green, long sheer dresses layered over leather separates, as well as handbags adorned with lipstick prints.

The fashion shows were spread throughout the city, with Collina Strada presenting their garden-themed collection on a rooftop farm in Brooklyn. Prabal Gurung showcased layered gowns and sculptural gold jewelry on Roosevelt Island, attracting guests like Padma Lakshmi, Awkwafina, Venus Williams, and Maddie Ziegler, who braved the rain and the aerial tramway to attend.

Proenza Schouler's event on Park Avenue hosted popular figures such as actor Rachel Sennott, Ayo Edebiri, and socialite Sofia Richie Grainge. Phillip Lim's show in Chinatown brought together Stephanie Hsu, Hayley Williams from Paramore, The Kid Laroi, Kathy Hilton, and others.

The star power present at Ralph Lauren's show, which featured Jennifer Lopez and many other A-list celebrities, was so immense that an oversized warehouse space was required to accommodate them all.

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Rachel Sennott, Chase Sui Wonders, Ayo Edebiri and Molly Gordon turned up to Proenza Schouler at Phillips auction house in Midtown East.

Christian Siriano's 15th anniversary show attracted a star-studded crowd, with notable attendees including Janet Jackson, Laura Linney, Laverne Cox, Kesha, and Avril Lavigne. Ralph Lauren also made a comeback, showcasing his first New York Fashion Week show since 2019. The event saw a constant flow of A-Listers, including Diane Keaton, Julianne Moore, James Marsden, Cara Delevingne, Amanda Seyfried, Jennifer Lopez (once again), Keri Russell, and Gabrielle Union, to name just a few.

Model Anna Ewers walks Ralph Lauren's Spring-Summer 2024 runway show.

The collection featured delicate, romantic plays on denim, as well as florals, lace and elegant eveningwear.

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The event signified a much-anticipated return to the schedule. As Lauren mentioned to CNN over a luxurious post-show dinner, "I am always in New York; it's where I grew up." According to Lauren, the city is constantly focused on embracing the new, which made it fitting for model Anna Ewers, the face of Ralph Lauren's latest handbag, the RL 888, to open the showcase.

On the other hand, the runway came to a close with supermodel Christy Turlington elegantly donning a form-fitting, gold gown with an impressively long train. During a rehearsal, there was a near mishap when model Natalia Vodianova accidentally stepped on the train as she walked behind Turlington. This incident, however, was met with laughter from Turlington, who gracefully brushed it off, as befits her status as a supermodel.

On Monday, a large gathering assembled on the Lower East Side of Manhattan to witness the unveiling of Shao, an up-and-coming fashion label. Shao Yang, the founder, joined forces with the notorious "fake heiress" Anna Delvey and publicist Kelly Cutrone to organize a highly-attended runway show on Delvey's rooftop, where she is currently under house arrest.

"I am incredibly grateful to be involved in this event, since as a new designer with a fresh brand, it can be challenging to attract an audience. It's not easy to gain recognition," expressed Yang.

A model in the elevator at Anna Delvey's building on the Lowest East Side.

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The next evening, Elena Velez took the chaos to a whole new level by creating a muddy runway in a warehouse in Williamsburg. Models, including Alana Hadid, showcased neutrals and raw hems as they gracefully paraded, but things took a wild turn towards the end. In a frenzy of excitement, they began to wrestle each other in the sludge. This unconventional show was a bold representation of womanhood, just like when Velez made headlines last season by having a model hold the designer's CFDA award as a weapon.

In a similar vein, Tanner Fletcher's runway show embraced a theme reminiscent of a beauty pageant from start to finish. Models gracefully walked while a commentator shared fun facts that could pass as "they want world peace" statements. To top it off, the show concluded with a special appearance by the reigning Miss Universe, RBonney Gabriel.

From minimal to maximal

In the realm of fashion shows, from Coach to Khaite, Jason Wu to Eckhaus Latta, a blend of long jackets and oversized suiting intertwined with delicate, translucent dresses stole the limelight throughout the week. While several of these renowned brands adhered to a subdued range of colors, there were also bold and extravagant interpretations on display.

Kim Shui's Saturday evening showing was an explosion of textures, detailing and color. Models waved and blew kisses at attendees as they walked the runway.

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Shui's exquisite appearance effortlessly reinvented regal, well-defined bodices into whimsical shapes. Throughout the collection, Shui challenged the lack of recognition for designs that are overtly feminine-coded.

This season, sustainability-minded designers embraced the opportunity to discover new materials and innovative methods of repurposing. Taymour, in an email to CNN, shared her adoption of Vegea, a type of leather derived from discarded grape skins from wineries. Additionally, she collaborated with Ugg to incorporate corn husk leather into their designs. Gabriela Hearst creatively utilized leather scraps from handbag production by transforming them into patches on dresses, while also incorporating "recycled sequins" into their woven pieces.

Scroll down to see Spring-Summer 2024s runway highlights, which will be updated throughout the week.

Macrame and beaded mesh in Gabriela Hearst's collection was inspired by Haitian painter Levoy Exil, whose work draws from Voodoo practises and symbolism.

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A confident showcase of Hearst's aesthetic, the pieces spoke to her faith in understated luxury and sustainable materials.

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Designer LaQuan Smith took to the runway with his models for the closing walk of his Spring-Summer 2024 collection.

Smith drew inspiration from iconic figures such as Barbarella and Grace Jones for his collection. These characters epitomize a blend of fierce action in a futuristic film and glamorous partying in a bustling nightclub.

The collection's show notes described it as an exploration into a futuristic LaQuan Smith universe, featuring ultra-crisp tailoring, bold proportions, and an intricate use of materials.

LaQuan Smith

Jason Wu combined frayed hems and holes with luxurious screen-printed dresses and elegant drapery, elevating the current trend of "quiet luxury" to captivating new heights.

Puppets & Puppets showcased their latest collection on a runway filled with lively plushie animals. Despite the eye-catching accessories, such as the banana purse, the brand's unique designs remained the center of attention.

"In her show notes, designer Carly Marks revealed that vintage paranormal photography served as her inspiration for this season. She emphasized the importance of revamping one's wardrobe as a means to initiate personal transformation."

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The Blonds named their Spring-Summer 2024 collection "Blond Titans," and described it in show notes as a celestial expedition through enchanting realms, where fabled beings adorn themselves with shimmering gems, draped in ethereal layers of organza and chiffon.

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It was everything from The Clash of the Titans to Britney Spears… we really wanted to go over the top, even more than usual.

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There were statement accessories to be seen all over, like this model's chunky, leopard print mask, crystal cuff and knee-high stockings

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Willy Chavarria showcased his collection at the renowned Woolworth Building in downtown New York. The collection comprised of summer tailoring, contemporary sportswear, and elements of evening wear, all infused with the brand's distinctive and evocative narrative, as described in the show notes.

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Teaming up with Tequila Don Julio, the collection showcased Ranchero hats that drew inspiration from the founder of the renowned liquor brand, paying homage to Chavarria's own cultural background. JP Yim/Getty Images.

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Taymour told CNN that she used AI while planning her Spring-Summer 2024 collection "as a tool to remix old Collina and drive it further."

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Taymour is known for injecting fantasy into her looks. "I love to create a world and a show but its so natural to me. At this point its just what happens," she told CNN.

Sia unexpectedly made a cameo appearance on Christian Siriano's runway at the Pierre Hotel, where she performed two songs while the energetic crowd admired the glitzy, ballet-inspired gowns that served as the collection's grand finale.

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Coach was one of many brands to rethink suit silhouettes and play with transparencies.

Coach creative director Stuart Vevers said that instead of starting from scratch, he considered this season to be a continuation from the previous one.

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I find the fluid approach to fashion in today's generation particularly inspiring, as they have the ability to re-contextualize genres and counter-cultures to create exciting new subcultures. Stuart Vevers, Coach.

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Grace Ling's New York Fashion Week debut highlighted her sculptural metalworking against a stark black-and-white palette.

Ling included wispy illusion gowns in her otherworldly show, which included the tiny blood and tear drop accents in various accessories.

Courtesy Grace Ling

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Wes Gordon's latest collection for Carolina Herrera garnered high praise from Herrera herself. She sat front row in a striking yellow pantsuit, enthusiastically applauding as the designer took his bow. The collection is characterized by an abundance of vibrant florals and statement-making proportions.

I found great inspiration in the magnificent city of New York, as well as in iconic American style figures such as Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy.

Peter Do's debut collection for Helmut Lang showcased a refreshing take on the brand's iconic utility straps. Model and musician Moses Sumney donned the seatbelt-inspired reinterpretations, paying homage to Lang's original parachute harnesses.

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T-shirts, tank tops and collared shirts bore the words of poet Poet Ocean Vuong, who contributed text for Do's collection in English and Vietnamese.

Prabal Gurung's collection showcased bold and eye-catching oversized gold earrings. The sinuous and sensual designs resembled glistening liquid gold, seemingly cascading from the models' jawlines.

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Prabal Gurung's collection is a captivating fusion of styles and traditions, influenced by narratives of migration and intercultural exchange. Embracing the "West meets East" concept, the designer skillfully intertwines diverse silhouettes and textures, transforming the garments into a powerful symbol of sartorial amalgamation.

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At Palomo Spain, designer Alejandro Gómez Palomo's playful, sensual collection featured extravagant feathered headpieces and luxe floral jewelry.

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And the floral motifs throughout — in embroidery, lace, pleating and more — served as a take on romance and desire that read both elegant and edgy.

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Ralph Lauren's collection embodies the essence of personal style, as stated in its show notes. It reflects the individuality of a woman who is both timeless and contemporary, daring yet romantic, refined and spirited — always staying true to her authentic self.

Returning to the New York Fashion Week schedule after four years, an emotional Phillip Lim told CNN his collection was all about the city and its continued resonance.

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The show notes revealed, "Our goal is to bring together the rich tapestry of influences and traditions found throughout New York City, and to honor and embrace the inherent beauty that exists in every facet of our diverse society."

Phillip Lim

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Proenza Schouler's airy draped dresses were reminiscent of blue and cloudy skies.

Proenza Schouler

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Sleek suiting and low-slung zippered bags were also among the collection's highlights.

Ulla Johnson, known for her lively prints, collaborated with New York painter Shara Hughes.

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Eckhaus Latta's earth tones were enlivened with shimmering copper and silver garments.

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Studio 189 showcased hand-crafted techniques in its collaborations with African artisans, including painted garments.

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"We don't throw anything away," Studio 189 co-founder Abrima Erwiah said backstage. "It's important for us to say, 'OK how can we use these materials?'"

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(Our designs) need to be something that value the people who make them, but also that you can keep and reuse forever.

Abrima Erwiah, Studio 189

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Models showcased long coats on the runway, exhibiting bold and extra-wide shoulders that created exaggerated silhouettes. The dark and cavernous Park Avenue Armory was brilliantly illuminated by beams of light, adding to the dramatic effect.

Khaite

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Piotrek Panszczyk, co-founder of Area, seamlessly blended couture and ready-to-wear in a captivating display. The brand's latest collection showcased an infusion of surrealism, featuring claw hardware embellished with strategic slits. This season's exploration focused on the transformation of primal elements such as bones and fur into prestigious symbols of prosperity.

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Area transformed bones into lacquered pieces adorned with Swarovski crystals, meticulously woven into an array of stunning gowns. The collection also featured dazzling crystal skull masks, shimmering gowns, and oversized puffer coats crafted with a photocopied fur fabric. Courtesy of Area.

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Adeam's ballet-inspired apparel showcased fluidity and delicacy as models gracefully paraded down the runway. Adding to the spectacle, the event featured a captivating performance by Tiler Peck, principal dancer of the New York City Ballet.

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Often ballet inspiration becomes more eveningwear-heavy or romantic, but I wanted the collection to still feel very youthful and fresh.

Hanako Maeda, Adeam

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Dion Lee's collection showcased "industrial experimentation" in its examination of urban workwear.

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At Libertine, a flurry of bold, intricate prints and patterns.

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Sergio Hudson's parade of girl bosses walked to cheers and applause from an audience that was also clearly powered-up and peppy.

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Colin Locascio's bright, punchy, hyper-floral collection experimented with the texture and form of suits and gowns.

was the founder of Advisry and he drew inspiration from the revolutionary introduction of technicolor in the film industry. Similar to the iconic transition in "The Wizard of Oz" where Dorothy's world transforms from monochrome to vibrant colors, Herron's collection initially consisted of black, brown, and white but evolved to incorporate various beautiful hues.

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Evolving over time, Herron's collection played with the composition of traditional suits and eventually transitioned into eye-catching, abstract attire. The show concluded with oversized pink, yellow, and blue garments, reminiscent of bulbous shapes.

Fujio Emura

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Retrofête founders Ohad Seroya and Aviad Klin celebrated five years in business and their first NYFW collection with micro-micro minis and shorts and oversized clutches.

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Shao Yang debuted her collection on Anna Delvey's East Village rooftop, sending out 1980s-inspired tailoring.

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