Feeding bacteria with industrial fruit waste led to an unexpected result: a unique yellow leather jacket. This innovative creation is the result of a partnership between Danish fashion brand Ganni and Mexican biomaterials company Polybion. The blazer, a one-of-a-kind prototype, serves as a demonstration of the possibilities for future collections. Made from bacterial cellulose, the jacket is not an imitation of leather, but rather a completely new material designed to offer a distinct tactile experience.
"We were amazed to see the jacket's popularity among many people because the material looked nothing like leather," said Alexis Gómez-Ortigoza, co-founder of Polybions. "It is easy to distinguish that it is not leather, and also not plastic. It has a unique texture."
The creators of the blazer claim that, despite being made using some traditional leather production methods, it has a significantly smaller carbon footprint while still maintaining durability and breathability. "This is the first jacket ever made by a global brand using bacterial nanocellulose," added Gómez-Ortigoza. "It is a significant milestone for the biomaterials industry."
From kombucha to canned fruit
Polybion, founded in 2014 by Gómez-Ortigoza and his brother, Axel, brings together their expertise in finance and biotechnology. With the addition of materials scientist Bárbara González Rolón, the team initially focused on exploring the potential of mycelium, a root-like network of fungal threads. To materialize their vision, they established a pilot plant dedicated to producing mycelium materials.
Something strange occurred when a colleague entered my office around five years ago. He presented me with a kombucha jar," recounted Gómez-Ortigoza. "It was from that drink that we first extracted our initial bacteria."
Kombucha, a popular fermented tea beverage, serves as the primary source for the bacterial biomass used in creating the innovative material known as Celium. As a result, Polybion has shifted its focus primarily towards bacterial fermentation, recognizing its potential as a viable substitute for high-performance leather.
Polybion utilizes scraps obtained from local mango canning plants to nourish the bacteria. "Here in central Mexico, we have an abundance of fruit waste which serves as the bacteria's food," stated Gómez-Ortigoza. "By incorporating our own unique formula, we transform this waste into a nutrient-rich medium for the bacteria to thrive on.
"Once the bacteria reproduces, it produces the nanocellulose matrix as a byproduct of its metabolic process. After a two-week period, we extract this matrix and subject it to a tanning and finishing procedure."
The bacterial biomass is treated with the same process as traditional leather.
Polybion
If not properly managed, the fruit waste would contribute to the harmful greenhouse gas methane, which has a heat-trapping effect 25 times stronger than carbon dioxide. Gómez-Ortigoza points out that some producers resort to illegal burning or dumping of waste. In contrast, the production of Celium emits only a fraction of the emissions compared to the most environmentally friendly leather production methods. Additionally, when taking into account the emissions prevented by utilizing the fruit waste, the overall process becomes carbon negative, as stated by Gómez-Ortigoza.
Once the nanocellulose is harvested, it undergoes treatment utilizing techniques employed by local tanneries. Gómez-Ortigoza stated, "We utilize the same equipment utilized by animal leather tanneries, with the exception of chromium and any harmful chemicals. Being an organic material, it possesses a natural texture, breathability, and wears out similarly to leather. This is particularly significant for luxury brands."
Polybion is currently exploring the potential of utilizing Celium for various applications beyond textiles, such as cardboard, thread, construction wood, and even wound dressings. Gómez-Ortigoza further added, "It has the potential to become a widely available material for diverse applications. However, presently, our focus lies in developing a leather alternative, as we believe this application holds the shortest path to market."
Cut from a different cloth
If you are interested in purchasing a bacterial jacket, you will need to be patient a little while longer. According to Lauren Bartley, the Sustainability and CSR Director at Ganni, the blazer is a unique item and regrettably not available for sale. Ganni, who has made a commitment to reduce their carbon emissions by 50% by 2027, is actively exploring alternative fabrics and aims to incorporate them into 10% of their primary collection by 2025. However, starting in 2024, they will be offering garments made from Celium for purchase.
The blazer's design replicates the silhouette that Ganni has previously showcased in their successful collections, but this time it is crafted from organic cotton. Michelle Obama has previously sported a blazer of the same design, albeit made from traditional materials. Bartley explains that they opted for a vibrant yellow color to achieve the same impactful and lively vibe as the previous versions, which were crafted from wool and featured bright pink and green hues.
Although it shares some similarities with leather, Celium is an organic material that's meant to have its own look and feel.
Polybion
Polybion is currently working on undisclosed projects with other fashion brands, including the world's largest sportswear company and three prominent luxury fashion houses from France. More information regarding these collaborations is expected to be announced next year.
Fashion houses are increasingly embracing innovative materials to create more sustainable garments. According to Kate Goldsworthy, a professor at the University of the Arts London specializing in Circular Design and Innovation, the textile industry is looking towards agricultural and food waste as a potential solution to the climate crisis. This shift aims to utilize planetary resources more efficiently, reducing reliance on virgin materials. Goldsworthy is not affiliated with Polybion.
Cellulose textiles are not new, but there are companies finding innovative ways to produce cellulose fibers from waste streams. Polybion has prioritized the environment in their production process and maintains a local supply chain within a 30-mile radius. Scaling up production and gaining consumer acceptance are the current challenges.
Kate Fletcher, a professor at the Royal Danish Academy and Oslo Metropolitan University, believes that alternative materials like Celium contribute to the goal of sustainable fashion by offering lower-impact clothing. However, she notes that addressing the root cause of the sustainability challenge in the fashion industry requires more than just alternative materials.
She stated that the real challenge lies in effectively managing the constant growth of the fashion industry and reducing overproduction. Failure to do so will result in increasing impacts, regardless of the choice of materials used in making garments.
