Are Your Go-To Lip Balms Aggravating Your Chapped Lips?

Are Your Go-To Lip Balms Aggravating Your Chapped Lips?

Discover how certain ingredients in common lip balms could be exacerbating dryness instead of providing the intended moisture to your lips.

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I store lip balm in various places like my purse, bedroom drawer, and car, ensuring it's always within reach. Despite frequent applications throughout the day, my lips remain chapped, even with popular brands offering only temporary relief.

Many lip balm brands claim to help with dry, chapped lips, but not all of them work the same. Some can even make your lips worse. Instead of spending money on pricey lip treatments, experts recommend checking the ingredients list first.

Do you know what actually causes chapped lips?

Cracked or chapped lips easily dry out because they lack the protective layers to retain moisture, according to Dr. Reshmi Kapoor, a dermatologist and founder of Brooklyn Dermatology. Lips are like an extension of the skin, but unlike the skin on your arm, they do not have a moisture barrier called the stratum corneum to prevent water loss.

The thin layer of the stratum corneum on the lips makes them more vulnerable to damage compared to other parts of the body, Kapoor explained. Unlike the skin, lips do not have hair follicles, sweat glands, or sebaceous glands that can provide additional moisture or oils to keep them hydrated.

Lips do not have the ability to produce moisture on their own, which is why they can become dry easily when the temperature increases, according to Kapoor. Exposure to the sun's harmful UV rays can lead to burnt, cracked, swollen, and irritated lips. Additionally, cold weather can also have negative effects on your lips. Low humidity and strong winds can strip moisture from the lips, making them prone to flaking.

Babylonian clay model showing a nude couple engaged in kissing. Date: 1800 BC

Babylonian clay model showing a nude couple engaged in kissing. Date: 1800 BC

Babylonian clay model showing a nude couple engaged in kissing. Date: 1800 BC

The Trustees of the British Museum

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Lip licking is another issue that many people struggle with. It may seem like a quick way to hydrate the lips, but in reality, it only makes the problem worse. Saliva, which is the main component of lip licking, contains enzymes that can actually irritate the skin and wear away the natural moisture barrier, according to Kapoor.

This constant licking can lead to a rash around the mouth area, known as lip licker’s dermatitis. While this condition can affect anyone, it is more common in young children. Dr. Shayan Cheraghlou, an expert in dermatology at NYU Grossman School of Medicine, explains that this habit creates a vicious cycle where the lips are licked to hydrate, but end up becoming even drier.

Certain ingredients in lip balm can actually make your lips more chapped. In an ideal situation, applying lip balm would instantly heal chapped lips. Unfortunately, some people may experience allergic reactions to certain ingredients in lip products, which can worsen the condition of their lips. This is known as allergic contact dermatitis, according to Cheraghlou.

If you've ever felt a cool and tingly sensation on your lips from using lip balm, it's likely because of menthol or camphor. These ingredients work as mild pain relievers to soothe any burning feeling on your lips. However, Kapoor cautioned that they can also remove the thin layer of skin on your lips, making them more prone to drying out.

Another common allergen in lip balm is beeswax, as pointed out by Cheraghlou. While beeswax helps to seal in moisture, it can lead to drier and itchier lips for those who are sensitive to this ingredient.

Salicylic acid can be drying on the lips for two reasons, according to Kapoor. First, it alters the pH balance, leading to increased dehydration. Second, it acts as an exfoliant, removing dry skin cells but also stripping away the moisture barrier.

Additionally, some lip balms may contain fragrances like geraniol and cinnamaldehyde to mask the smell of chemicals. These fragrances are also used to give flavored lip balms a pleasant taste and scent, such as cinnamon or raspberry. However, Kapoor cautioned that fragrances have the potential to cause lip inflammation. The US Food and Drug Administration has identified 26 fragrance allergens commonly found in cosmetic products.

Happy girl getting ready for her night routine in bathroom

Happy girl getting ready for her night routine in bathroom

Happy girl getting ready for her night routine in bathroom

Dobrila Vignjevic/iStockphoto/Getty Images

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Try this ingredient for cracked lips

Both dermatologists suggest using lip balm with petrolatum, also known as petroleum jelly, as the main ingredient. Petrolatum works as a sealant to lock in moisture on the lips without causing irritation from additional chemicals.

It is advised to apply petrolatum as required, but Kapoor suggests applying a generous amount at night to moisturize the lips. She suggests layering it on the lips overnight, similar to spreading cream cheese on a bagel.

Other tips to avoid getting chapped lips include checking for SPF in your lip products. Our lips are vulnerable to skin cancer, and exposure to the sun's UV rays can contribute to dryness. For those dealing with extremely dry lips, it's best to opt for products containing zinc oxide and titanium oxide as sunscreen ingredients, as other types may cause irritation.

To keep your lips hydrated, Kapoor suggests using shea butter and ceramide, which help strengthen the skin's moisture barrier and prevent water loss. It is also important to stay hydrated by drinking plenty of water and protecting your lips from harsh winds with lip balm or a scarf.

However, it is advisable to avoid using lip scrubs. Kapoor explains that lip scrubs exfoliate the skin, particularly the thin stratum corneum on the lips. By scrubbing away this healthy skin, it can make the lips more susceptible to environmental irritants.


bee32/iStockphoto/Getty Images/iStockphoto

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Chapped lips can sometimes indicate a more serious underlying health issue. If you find that your chapped lips persist or get worse, it may be a good idea to make an appointment with your dermatologist. According to Cheraghlou, chapped lips can be a sign of other health conditions such as vitamin deficiencies or thyroid disease.

Angular cheilitis is a skin condition that is often confused with chapped lips. It leads to inflammation and small cracks at the corners of the mouth. Licking the affected area can make it worse, and using lip balm won't help. However, it can be treated with a topical antifungal, according to Cheraghlou.

Jocelyn Solis-Moreira is a freelance health and science journalist based in New York.

Editor's P/S:

The article provides a comprehensive analysis of the causes and treatment of chapped lips, offering valuable insights and practical advice. It highlights the importance of understanding the unique structure of lips and the factors that contribute to their dryness, such as environmental conditions, lip licking, and certain ingredients in lip balms.

The article emphasizes the efficacy of petrolatum as a key ingredient in lip balms, as it effectively seals in moisture without causing irritation. It also suggests additional measures to prevent chapped lips, including using SPF-containing lip products, staying hydrated, and avoiding lip scrubs that can damage the delicate skin of the lips. By incorporating these tips into your daily routine, you can effectively address the problem of chapped lips and maintain healthy, hydrated lips.

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