An Artist's Escape: Trading the US for a Tranquil Life in France

Taylor Barnes hadn't planned on leaving the US and moving near the French Pyrenees. However, with the rising cost of living in the US and her difficulty in finding affordable space to support fellow ****artists in Los Angeles, the ****artist in her 60s started considering a new life overseas.

In 2021, Barnes, who is divorced with one daughter, moved to the medieval village of Saissac, in the Aude region of France near the Montagne Noire mountain range.

‘Visually inspiring’

US artist Taylor Barnes, from Los Angeles, relocated to the medieval village of Saissac close to the French Pyrenees in 2021.

US ****artist Taylor Barnes, from Los Angeles, relocated to the medieval village of Saissac close to the French Pyrenees in 2021.

Taylor Barnes

“I considered, among many things, where I would like to live out the last quarter of my life,” Barnes tells CNN.

Barnes believed that the village was visually inspiring, with oak and pine forests, numerous wild bird species, and two rivers flowing through gorges on each side of the castle.

She felt that moving to a new country was not easy, but she saw great potential in this remote location in southern France for her residency programs. Here, ****artists could thrive and find inspiration in their work.

She says the cost of living in the US was increasing quickly, making affordable housing programs difficult to find. Barnes, who has always lived near the ocean, felt a strong emotional connection when she visited Saissac in 2018. The village's beautiful surroundings reminded her of coastal California.

Perched on a granite outcropping, Saissac boasts breathtaking views of the Pyrenees mountain range, which separates France and Spain, as well as the valley below. The village is dominated by an ancient medieval castle that gives it a magical atmosphere.

For one visitor, Saissac reminded her of home in France, with its stunning views that evoke the same emotional response as gazing out at the endless ocean. She also noted the resemblance of the landscape to northern California.

Barnes decided to hire a consultant to assist her during the relocation process, and she found it to be a worthwhile investment.

"He helped me with various tasks such as getting my visa, setting up my phone and bank account, arranging insurance for my building, and providing answers to questions about taxes and other concerns," she explains.

Cozy hideaway

In 2019, Barnes bought an abandoned crawfish restaurant and converted it into a residency for artists.

In 2019, Barnes bought an abandoned crawfish restaurant and converted it into a residency for ****artists.

Taylor Barnes

Barnes purchased an old crawfish restaurant in 2019 and turned it into a residency called 3.1 Art Sassaic. This space was created for ****artists to live in and exchange creative ideas.

The historic building, originally built in the 1900s, was renovated to provide guests with a high level of privacy. It now includes areas for intimate dinners and hosting events.

The top floor has been converted into living spaces for visiting ****artists. Each room is equipped with sound insulation to provide a quiet environment for guests to focus.

Visiting ****artists can enjoy a spacious studio with a beautiful view of the Vernassonne river gorge. The studio is nestled among wild oak trees and is a perfect spot for bird-watching.

Barnes had to follow strict rules set by French art heritage authorities while renovating. Thankfully, a restoration architect guided her through the procedures.

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The main living area holds a large open fireplace, and a dining space with a library for winter gatherings.

"Our kitchen is top-notch and we welcome residents who enjoy cooking," says Barnes. "The local area offers great outdoor markets and fresh produce, inspiring culinary creativity. It's interesting how many ****artists also excel in the kitchen."

From the property's garden terrace, there is a scenic trail leading to the village chateau, where concerts and film screenings are held.

To attend one of the residency programs, ****artists need to apply with a project they plan to work on while in Saissac. The programs are held from spring to fall.

The village of Saissac, built in the Middle Ages, offers a picturesque setting with stone walls, cobblestone roads, and a lavoir (a stone washing pool for laundry). This ancient atmosphere has been a great source of inspiration for visitors, transporting them to another place and time.

The area used to be a favorite spot for impressionist painters, so it's possible that some parts of the scenery have stayed the same.

The locals are a mix of creative individuals like woodworkers, bakers, chefs, gardeners, and herbalists.

Slower-paced lifestyle

Barnes with visiting artists, Dennis Miranda Zamorano, Sonya and MB Boissonnault.

Barnes with visiting ****artists, Dennis Miranda Zamorano, Sonya and MB Boissonnault.

Taylor Barnes

Barnes has been hosting cultural events that have attracted a good mix of locals and expats, with many attendees coming from England, Ireland, and the Netherlands.

Ever since relocating to Saissac, Barnes has fully embraced the relaxed and leisurely pace of life in the area.

She says her time management has changed to embrace the relaxed pace of a typical French day, with leisurely two-hour lunches, a five-day work week, and a respect for holidays and weekends.

Her typical day starts with an early morning walk in the forest and around the local lake with her Berger Blanc Suisse dog, Storm.

After exploring the area, stop by the local épicerie for an espresso, then enjoy lunch at either Trésors d’Oc or The Montagne Noire Restaurant.

During the winter, Sassaic is quiet, but in the summer, there are lively street dinners where residents bring chairs, tables, homemade dishes, and visit neighboring villages for music at outdoor evening markets. Don't forget to unwind with after-work apéros at the local bar, as recommended by Barnes.

You haven't truly experienced life until you witness a full moon rising over the French countryside on a warm summer evening. It feels like I'm living in a beautiful French movie," she explains.

When Barnes first arrived in 2021, she knew very little French. Now, she finds herself speaking more softly and slowly with her French friends, influenced by the culture and her lack of confidence in the language.

She’s currently taking French lessons and using language learning apps, but says that it’s been a slow process.

Creative space

Artists must apply with a specific project before being accepted onto Barnes' residential programs,

Artists must apply with a specific project before being accepted onto Barnes' residential programs,

Taylor Barnes

Barnes learned that the French have strict meal times. In small villages, restaurants stick to a schedule: lunch from 12:30 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Living in a tight-knit community has changed Barnes' social habits and made her feel safer. She holds a Carte de Séjour renewable five-year residency permit.

"In France, I make sure to say bonjour to everyone I pass on the street. It would be considered rude not to," she explains.

In Los Angeles, I tend to avoid making eye contact and greeting everyone, as it might be seen as strange behavior.

In a city, it's easy to blend in and go unnoticed. However, in a village, everyone knows each other and shows genuine concern.

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As a city person, I used to find the lack of anonymity annoying. However, I now find it comforting to know that if I suddenly disappeared from the village, someone would notice.

Barnes has been really impressed by the French healthcare system. It offers universal coverage for all legal residents, which makes him feel more at ease about growing older in France.

"It's clear to me that aging gracefully and staying healthy in the US can be really tough," she explains.

"Not only that, but the US often leaves older people feeling isolated and ignored, as our society tends to prioritize youth. This makes the idea of growing old in America seem unattractive to me."

When Barnes isn’t working on her art, she enjoys discovering unique places and engaging in activities like boating on Canal du Midi and hiking in the remote forests of Montagne Noire.

Barnes depends on her friends in the village to make important calls for her during difficult times. They also assist ****artists who participate in her programs, which take place from spring to fall, by arranging transportation.

“I don’t know what I would do without my core group of supportive village friends,” she says. “You cannot do a relocation alone – it literally takes a village.”

Editor's P/S:

The article provides an inspiring account of Taylor Barnes's journey as she left the hustle and bustle of Los Angeles for the tranquil village of Saissac in France. Her decision was driven by the rising cost of living in the US and the desire to create a more affordable and inspiring space for fellow ****artists. Barnes's experience highlights the allure of a slower-paced lifestyle, where community spirit and a deep connection to nature take precedence.

The article sheds light on the challenges and rewards of relocating to a foreign country. Barnes faced language barriers and cultural differences, but she embraced them with an open mind and a willingness to learn. She also found solace in the support of her friends in the village, who helped her navigate the complexities of a new environment. Barnes's story is a testament to the transformative power of stepping outside one's comfort zone and embracing new experiences. It encourages readers to consider the possibilities that lie beyond their familiar surroundings and to seek out places where their creativity and well-being can flourish.