Bethlehem's labyrinthine streets reverberate with the sound of church bells. Normally bustling with visitors as Christmas approaches, the Israeli-occupied West Bank city is nearly empty this year. Local leaders have decided to scale back festivities in solidarity with the Palestinian population, due to heavy fighting in the devastated Gaza Strip between Israel and Hamas.
Over 20,000 Palestinians have reportedly lost their lives during Israel's air and ground offensive, as stated by the Hamas-controlled Ministry of Health in Gaza. Additionally, nearly 85% of the total population in the area has been forced to flee from their homes. The conflict began with a terrorist attack by Hamas on southern Israel on October 7, resulting in the deaths of at least 1,200 people and the abduction of over 240 others.
Many people here have connections to Gaza through family and friends, and a feeling of sadness has descended on the city, which holds special significance for Christians as the birthplace of Jesus Christ.
The festive decorations that used to brighten the streets have been taken down, and the parades and religious festivities have been called off. In the heart of the city, the iconic Manger Square Christmas tree is noticeably missing.
Traveling to Bethlehem, located about eight kilometers south of Jerusalem, is typically a challenging journey. Movement is limited by the Israeli-built West Bank barrier and the numerous checkpoints that control access to the city. The situation has only deteriorated since the bold attack by Hamas.
The Church of the Nativity, a World Heritage site, is largely empty this year with Christmas celebrations on hold.
Faiz Abu Rmeleh/dpa/Reuters
The deserted square of the Al-Mahd Church.
Israel implemented movement restrictions in Bethlehem and other Palestinian towns in the West Bank, erecting military checkpoints that hinder Palestinians from commuting to work since October 7.
The territory under occupation has seen a sharp increase in violence, resulting in the deaths of at least 300 Palestinians in Israeli attacks, as reported by the Palestinian health ministry.
"I don't know how to explain it to my son when he asked why there's no Christmas tree this year," Ali Thabet tells CNN.
He and his family reside in Bethlehem and make a point to visit every Christmas "because of our strong relationship with our Christian brothers."
As he explains, "We participate in their festivities, and they also participate in ours. However, this holiday season is particularly bleak." The evidence of the conflict is unmistakable as we walk down the cobblestone streets.
Many businesses were counting on a bustling holiday season following the challenges and travel limitations of the COVID-19 pandemic. However, with the absence of typical tourist traffic and local patrons, numerous hotels, stores, and eateries have been forced to close their doors.
Rony Tabash, a third-generation shop owner in Bethlehem, points out that the town's economy relies heavily on pilgrims and tourism. Sadly, he stands outside his store, anticipating customers who may never come.
Many locals in Bethlehem have connections in Gaza and Israel restricted movement in the town and elsewhere.
Mahmoud Illean/AP
Souvenirs and exquisitely carved olive wood nativity scenes gather dust on the shelves at Tabash's store. It is one of the few that remain open, dedicated to supporting the talented artisans who create his merchandise with care.
Tabash takes his father to the shop every day to give him a change of scenery. The store, which was established by his grandfather in 1927, holds a special place in their hearts, just like the square and its renowned church.
Image credit: Jakub Porzycki/NurPhoto/Shutterstock (13691448ao). A view of the Basilica of the Nativity and a Christmas tree in Bethlehem, Palestinian Territories, captured on December 28, 2022. This photo depicts daily life in Bethlehem, Palestine.
The festivities in Bethlehem will have a different feel this year. "This Christmas is unlike any we've experienced before," he adds. "For the past three months, we haven't made a single sale. I don't want my father to stay home, and I refuse to lose hope."
The Church of the Nativity, the first World Heritage site in the Palestinian territories, is now mostly empty. In a typical year, hundreds of pilgrims would patiently wait in queues outside the car park to enter the grotto, believed to be the exact location of Jesus' birth since the 2nd century. A 14-pointed silver star on the marble floor marks the precise spot of the birth. Emperor Constantine built a church on the site in the 4th century, which was destroyed in 529 and replaced by the larger structure that stands today.
"Usually, it's packed with people, but the fighting in Gaza has completely changed everything. It's so quiet now," Father Spiridon Sammour, a Greek Orthodox priest at the Church of the Nativity, remarks.
The speaker solemnly expresses that Christmas is supposed to be about joy, love, and peace, but laments the current lack of peace and joy. He acknowledges that the situation is beyond their control and prays for leaders worldwide to be guided by God's light in making decisions for peace. This report includes contributions from CNN's Kareem El Damanhoury, Eyad Kourdi, and Sugam Pokharel.