A Tokyo Gem: Inside the 98-Year-Old Cafe That Embraces Classical Music Over Mobile Phones

When you step into the Lion Cafe in Tokyo's Shibuya district, you can't miss the unique seating arrangement. All chairs are positioned facing two huge speakers on the wall, which are the main attraction of this 98-year-old establishment.

This café is one of the few remaining meikyoku kissa, also known as masterpiece cafés, in the city.

"Meikyoku kissa is a spot where you can enjoy classical music, grab a drink, and unwind," shared Naoya Yamadera, who is now managing the Lion Cafe.

The cafe was first established by his father, Yanosuke Yamadera, back in 1926. Unfortunately, it was destroyed during air raids in World War II. However, it was reconstructed and grew in the 1950s, with its decor still influenced by the original European Baroque style.

Inside the cafe, the dimly lit interior showcases dark wood and intricate carved reliefs. Despite its stone-walled façade, the atmosphere is cozy and inviting.

In contrast to typical cafes, socializing is not encouraged in this establishment. Additionally, talking on mobile phones is strictly prohibited to maintain a tranquil environment for all patrons.

The exterior of Cafe Lion, one of Tokyo's last 'masterpiece cafes.'

The cafe has more than 10,000 classical music CDs and records.

Yamadera explains that all the seats facing one direction creates a more realistic concert experience, similar to facing an actual orchestra.

"It was created to make you feel like you are right there at a live orchestra concert," he explains.

The sound system, specifically made for the café in 1950, is built into the front wall that is two stories high. Below the speakers, there are shelves and racks filled with rows of vinyl records and CDs – in total, they have over 5,000 of each, as mentioned by Yamadera.

Customers can request certain classical pieces from the store’s collection – unless they’re in the middle of a set playlist.

A new fan base emerges

Yamadera says he spent his much of childhood in the café.

He joined the staff when he was in junior high school, starting as a dishwasher.

The café has remained relatively unchanged over the years, and Yamadera believes this is what makes it so special.

The owner recalls the early days when music equipment was costly and not easily accessible. At one point, the café even used a hand-cranked phonograph, a luxury item that only a few could afford.

This allowed Lion Cafe to lure customers to experience what was a rare form of entertainment at the time.

“Listening to music was the latest trend, like fashion,” says Yamadera.

The exterior of Cafe Lion, one of Tokyo's last 'masterpiece cafes.'

Many old customers who used to be students in Tokyo and later moved to the countryside, return to this cafe after 30, 40, or even 50 years. Despite the passing of time, the store remains unchanged. These customers always leave with a sense of nostalgia and fond memories, which is what makes this cafe so special.

Some of their most loyal customers have been coming to the cafe for over sixty years. The 62-year-old manager mentioned that one of their customers, who is now around 70 years old, first started visiting the cafe when they were in high school.

In recent years, the unique cafe has become more and more popular, even gaining attention on an international level.

Yamadara shares, "We have seen many new faces coming in. A lot of people are not very familiar with classical music, so I hope that they can start getting accustomed to it in environments like this."

Some of our customers come from distant places like America and Europe, as well as from various parts of Japan. They discover our café through guidebooks and view it as a must-visit destination, so I want to showcase the café to these visitors.

After spending many years working and DJing at the classical café, Yamadera shares that he doesn't have just one favorite classical piece, but there are a few that truly stand out to him.

Yamadera shares, "I prefer the songs that are most familiar to me. The upcoming concert on December 30th and 31st will feature the chorus of Beethoven's Symphony No. 9, which holds a special place in my heart."

To learn more about the Lion Cafe, check out the video located at the top of this article.

Editor's P/S:

Stepping into the Lion Cafe is a journey through time, transporting patrons to an era where classical music reigned supreme. The unique seating arrangement, facing two towering speakers, creates an immersive concert-like experience, inviting listeners to fully engage with the melodies. The dimly lit interior, adorned with intricate carvings and dark wood, exudes an aura of tranquility, fostering an environment conducive to musical appreciation.

The cafe's history is intertwined with the evolution of entertainment technology. From the hand-cranked phonograph to the state-of-the-art sound system, the Lion Cafe has consistently embraced innovation while preserving its core values. Its vast collection of over 10,000 classical music CDs and records caters to discerning music enthusiasts, allowing them to delve into the timeless masterpieces of the genre. The cafe's loyal clientele, including those who have frequented it for decades, attest to its enduring charm and the enduring allure of classical music.