A Revolutionary Ralph Lauren Collection Honors Indigenous Design
Ralph Lauren's groundbreaking collection, guided by Navajo textile artist Naiomi Glasses, aims to revolutionize the concept of Americana With a focus on heritage and fashion history, this collaboration promises to redefine the boundaries of indigenous design (347 characters)
Growing up in Rock Point, Arizona in the Navajo Nation, Naiomi Glasses, Ralph Lauren's inaugural "artist in residence," has always felt a deep connection to the New York City-based label.
"It's always been a brand that I can associate with family," the seventh-generation Diné (Navajo) textile artist and weaver told CNN. She fondly recalls how her mother would dress her in Ralph Lauren polos, Oxford shoes, and knit dresses, paired with traditional Diné pieces, a fashion practice that she continues to honor today. (Diné is translated as "the people" in the community's own language; "Navajo" is derived from the Tewa-Pueblo term "nava hu," or "place of large planted fields.")
Family holds immense significance for Glasses, who acquired the art of weaving from her paternal grandmother and her brother (who also serves as her design partner). Initially, Glasses had contemplated pursuing a career path in creating "floor rugs, blankets, and possibly fashion," although the use of "possibly" turned out to be a significant understatement.
At her mother's urging, 18-year-old Glasses first began to solidify her dreams of working in the fashion industry, particularly with esteemed brands like Ralph Lauren. Looking back, the now-24-year-old (shown above) can only describe the journey as serendipitous.
"Glasses expressed gratitude to her parents, Cynthia and Tyler Sr., for nurturing her confidence and supporting her ambitions, including her desire to work with Ralph Lauren. Following her internship with Creative Futures Collective, where she collaborated with Gabriella Hearst on the Spring-Summer 2022 collection, she received an unexpected call from the organization's co-founder, Jai Al-Attas, who informed her that someone at Ralph Lauren was eager to connect with her."
Redefining heritage
Founded in 1967, Ralph Lauren has solidified its position as a trendsetter for a distinctive "Americana" style, often linked with its famous polo shirts, cable-knit sweaters, and khakis. Traditionally associated with the country club attire and its culture, which evokes ideas of both exclusivity and exclusion, the brand has made efforts in recent years to redefine its image for consumers.
In 2020, Ralph Lauren introduced new initiatives to broaden its "collegiate sensibility." This led to a collaboration with Morehouse and Spelman Colleges in 2022, integrating the traditions and styles of historically Black colleges and universities. That same year, the brand also announced the "artist in residence" series, featuring Native and Indigenous artisans, as part of its commitment to move from inspiration to collaboration with the communities that have inspired Ralph Lauren, according to a statement from the label.
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David Lauren, son of founder Ralph and the company's chief branding and innovation officer, explained in an email to CNN that Ralph Lauren has always drawn inspiration from the people, art, and diverse cultures of America. He stated that the company is evolving in how they share these stories, striving to be more inclusive and authentic in their approach. "We are not just showcasing American style, but providing a global window into America," he emphasized. "This is a true responsibility, and it requires us to constantly determine what is inspiring and aspirational, pushing ourselves to be increasingly genuine in the narratives we present."
The collaboration between Polo Ralph Lauren and Naiomi Glasses begins on December 5, with three seasonal limited edition drops showcasing menswear, womenswear, unisex apparel, and accessories.
"Traditionally, Americana fashion has not represented designers of Indigenous descent, and as the original people of this land, we are breaking new ground," Glasses explained. "This collection will expand the definition of Americana fashion."
The inaugural collection from Glasses is a tribute to Diné elders with sophisticated separates, such as luxurious marigold and orange bronze velvet blouses. These are accentuated with delicate puff shoulders and silver concho buttons. "Our grandmothers are the authentic style influencers of the Navajo Nation," she remarked.
Ralph Lauren, the designer, activist, and TikTok-famous skateboarder, has enthusiastically "reimagined" iconic Ralph Lauren silhouettes, such as the Great Ranch Coat, a piece of outerwear that she had admired for years. "I already had a vision of what would look really beautiful on it," she said. She suggested using a fabric made of undyed wool blended with soft alpaca fleece to evoke the feeling and significance of "wearing blankets," which are cherished by the Diné and Indigenous people for both their functionality and as heirlooms. She noted that her versions are "more modernized."
Glasses collaborated closely with the Ralph Lauren design teams to integrate significant Diné motifs and subtle details into the collection, such as distinctive weaving patterns and the Spider Woman cross symbol on shawl collar coats and poncho wraps. "The spider woman is a deity from our Navajo creation story, who taught Navajos how to weave," she explained.
"I'm thrilled to share not only my designs, but also the beauty of our Diné way of life with the world."
Naiomi Glasses
In addition to Saltillo diamonds and four-directional crosses, other motifs represent traditional Diné design elements that pre-date those popularized after the late-1800s colonial trading posts and other outside influences altered and appropriated many of the community's practices to cater to White settlers.
Making fashion history
In essence, Glasses' celebration of her "Americana" is a way of reclaiming it. "The Navajo pieces were initially mostly functional and simply designs that we, as Diné, found to be beautiful," Glasses explained. "So for me, it was about weaving in the same way they did, staying true to their unique style."
Ralph Lauren stated, "My love for heritage and tradition is paramount. Showcasing the true essence of heritage craftsmanship involves collaborating with individuals who have upheld these enduring traditions for centuries, and sharing their narratives with the global community."
Ryan RedCorn/Courtesy Ralph Lauren
A portion of sales from Glasses' first collection will benefit Change Labs, a nonprofit organization working to grow Navajo and Hopi small businesses.
Ryan RedCorn/Courtesy Ralph Lauren
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Glasses' collection features 32 pieces total, in colors "inspired by her homeland on Navajo Nation," the brand said.
Ryan RedCorn/Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
One aspect of Glasses' enduring admiration for Ralph Lauren's brand is its accessories. She vividly remembers being mesmerized by the dazzling jewelry on display at the flagship store in Phoenix when she was a teenager. Even then, Glasses had already started building up an impressive collection of turquoise, influenced by her grandmother.
As part of her residency, Glasses is now paying it forward by providing a platform for contemporary Indigenous jewelry makers. This includes showcasing the work of Hopi designer Piki Wadsworth, whose silver and turquoise pieces will be available online and in select Ralph Lauren flagships.
"I felt it was crucial to uplift other Indigenous creatives along with me on this journey," she explained.
Ralph Lauren's return to his roots: The latest campaign features a curated collection of jewelry and clothing designs, along with pieces from the designer's own archive. The stunning new campaign was captured by Osage multihyphenate and "Reservation Dogs" writer Ryan RedCorn, along with Navajo photographer and friend of Ralph Lauren, Daryn Sells.
Glasses was particularly encouraged by the Indigenous representation seen in both the photos and videos from the campaigns, both in front of and behind the camera. "Ryan was able to capture crucial moments, even the simple joy and laughter," she noted. "He understands the significance of capturing these moments because for so long, indigenous people have been portrayed as stoic. It's truly beautiful to see the joy of Indigenous people."
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The Glasses family, pictured as part of Ralph Lauren's campaign imagery.
Ryan RedCorn/Courtesy Ralph Lauren
This is also because the campaign's lineup included famous models Quannah Chasinghorse and Phillip Bread, as well as musician Mato Mayuhi, along with Glasses herself, her brother, Tyler, and their parents. "In a production of that magnitude, having a connection with a community of familiar people made it feel special," Glasses said. "There were a lot of people who were dear to me."
